Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 x 10 CCW C10 wheels

anodised black

seems to be reasonable brake clearance, more than 6mm at its tightest

offsets difficult to judge whilst suspension is not under load but should be aggressive without sticking out too much by my estimates, fingers crossed for when the slicks are mounted and the car sitting at ride height.

gallery_56949_3804_193070.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321550-complete-custom-wheels/
Share on other sites

hey John,

they are 10 inch wide with 6.6 inch backspace - bit rough to convert but maybe +27mm??

welcome to try them on anytime if thats close :cheers:

though with the times your car is getting already i dont know if I should!

hmm that offset might work :D but might have to come and try it out one day

can u weigh the wheel as well ? cheers

mind if i ask how much they are ? and where to get them from ? pm me if u dont want the world to know the price

as i found out at superlap, u can never have enuff tyre on the road

offsets works well up front. will be tucked in at the rear. I reckon I will need a 15mm spacer but will wait and see.

plenty of brake clearance, tried to demonstrate with backlight as I know many of you are interested

gallery_56949_3804_185539.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_455555.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_134373.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_782240.jpg

thanks Duncan.

only went with this set up after you had done all the hard work trying various wheel/tyre combo's

i would recommend the CCW for anyone who is interested in 18 inch track wheels and is concerned about brake clearance

  • 3 weeks later...

The new wheels and 27/68/18 second hand michelin porsche cup slicks worked well today. As did all the other mods Trent and the boys down at Mercury have been frantically finishing off for today. more on that some other time.

here are some pics of the wheels on at the track. Just over 3 degrees camber, about 15mm lowered. no rubbing.

55.67 on the sprint and 58.12 on the Clubman at QR

gallery_56949_3842_181924.jpg

gallery_56949_3842_160529.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So where is this message group so we can organise another meet? Keen to come along and catchup. Might eventually be in a skyline again next year, but the Mustang will have to do for now. Also need to get the WRX back on the road. Stupid f**king money pit that thing is.
    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
×
×
  • Create New...