Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 x 10 CCW C10 wheels

anodised black

seems to be reasonable brake clearance, more than 6mm at its tightest

offsets difficult to judge whilst suspension is not under load but should be aggressive without sticking out too much by my estimates, fingers crossed for when the slicks are mounted and the car sitting at ride height.

gallery_56949_3804_193070.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321550-complete-custom-wheels/
Share on other sites

hey John,

they are 10 inch wide with 6.6 inch backspace - bit rough to convert but maybe +27mm??

welcome to try them on anytime if thats close :cheers:

though with the times your car is getting already i dont know if I should!

hmm that offset might work :D but might have to come and try it out one day

can u weigh the wheel as well ? cheers

mind if i ask how much they are ? and where to get them from ? pm me if u dont want the world to know the price

as i found out at superlap, u can never have enuff tyre on the road

offsets works well up front. will be tucked in at the rear. I reckon I will need a 15mm spacer but will wait and see.

plenty of brake clearance, tried to demonstrate with backlight as I know many of you are interested

gallery_56949_3804_185539.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_455555.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_134373.jpg

gallery_56949_3804_782240.jpg

thanks Duncan.

only went with this set up after you had done all the hard work trying various wheel/tyre combo's

i would recommend the CCW for anyone who is interested in 18 inch track wheels and is concerned about brake clearance

  • 3 weeks later...

The new wheels and 27/68/18 second hand michelin porsche cup slicks worked well today. As did all the other mods Trent and the boys down at Mercury have been frantically finishing off for today. more on that some other time.

here are some pics of the wheels on at the track. Just over 3 degrees camber, about 15mm lowered. no rubbing.

55.67 on the sprint and 58.12 on the Clubman at QR

gallery_56949_3842_181924.jpg

gallery_56949_3842_160529.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...