Superlap Eastern Creek 2010

[30three]

Hopefully i learn how to use my camera properly by next year

[NA_Goodness]

Just practice, practice, practice! Read a few sites and go experiment a bit. That's what I did, as well as asking advice from the guys on here.

Also, if you can do a course on it, you'll learn heaps. My parents bought me one for my birthday this year, best present ever!! Lol

[FineLine]

Hopefully i learn how to use my camera properly by next year

I think you're doin pretty damn good already mate. That shot of the advan 32 is one of the best i have seen of that car.

[30three]

I think you're doin pretty damn good already mate. That shot of the advan 32 is one of the best i have seen of that car.

Thanks mate

[GoldZilla]

Hopefully i learn how to use my camera properly by next year

Just practice, practice, practice! Read a few sites and go experiment a bit. That's what I did, as well as asking advice from the guys on here.

Also, if you can do a course on it, you'll learn heaps. My parents bought me one for my birthday this year, best present ever!! Lol

Agreed, take heaps of photos using different settings and just experiment to see what works. Even something as simple as putting your camera on a tripod, not moving it, and just playing with random settings on the camera can teach you a whole lot!

Oh, and forget the "Auto" mode - read some books/magazines/websites and watch some videos on YouTube or Canon's own "World of EOS" site. There's no use having a D-SLR if you're only going to use the Auto mode.

[NA_Goodness]

Exactly. I never use auto mode! Most of the time its on "P". Like auto, except you can change settings, like white balance, exposure, flash, ect. Havent mastered full auto yet, though

[30three]

Thanks for tips, just a matter of time and motivation. When it comes to tripods, are the cheaper ones any good or should I just get a manfrotto?

[FST513]

Don't get a cheap one. The expensive ones are expensive for a reason. Better support, less vibration, stronger and more expandable e.g. the legs can go everywhere and so can the neck of the tripod.

For a beginners tripod, a SLIK or manfrotto tripod would do a good job for relatively cheap (between $100-$200 with the normal panhead). I suggest buying a ballhead like a Manfrotto 488RC2 for ease of manouevrability when panning etc it is less restrictive than a panhead.

Unless you plan on supporting 400 2.8's and big super tele lenses, there is no need for you to invest in expensive tripods like Gitzo's unless you become professional, need them essentially for landscape photos or super strong support for heavy stuff or unless you have the money to blow on them

Hope i helped.

[30three]

Thanks for that Kory, i figured the cheaper ones weren't any good. Another 2 pics.

[MRSAMO]

Hopefully i learn how to use my camera properly by next year

THey are fine, because you're using Auto (I was too lol) you will be capturing "non-moving" images. Enthusiasts call that happy-snaps.

You need 3 things to make your photos more creative:

1. Switch your camera mode to P or M

2. Get fast zoom lenses with a good range (etc 70-200mm or higher)

3. Imaging software (Adobe etc)

3. Practice the above 3

With an 11-16mm, food and a portable chair for one old man in both hands, I did not have the setup to take many shots let alone panning ones.

As for cheap DSLRs, they are fine as long as you have access to manual mode. Sometimes it is better to work your way up once you figure out the type of photographer that you are and the lenses that you have. Don't be put off if someone has a more expensive body or lenses than you, it's the person behind the camera that counts.

[MaTBoY]

I can +1 for the slik tripod.

Yes it's cheap and shitty, but I haven't really found a situation where it hasn't done a good enough job for me. It's nice and light too.

I'd only upgrade if I was going to do more panning, or if i was going on a proper adventure as it's not the most robust unit out there.

still.. good for entry level.

[FST513]

THey are fine, because you're using Auto (I was too lol) you will be capturing "non-moving" images. Enthusiasts call that happy-snaps.

You need 3 things to make your photos more creative:

1. Switch your camera mode to P or M

2. Get fast zoom lenses with a good range (etc 70-200mm or higher)

3. Imaging software (Adobe etc)

3. Practice the above 3

With an 11-16mm, food and a portable chair for one old man in both hands, I did not have the setup to take many shots let alone panning ones.

As for cheap DSLRs, they are fine as long as you have access to manual mode. Sometimes it is better to work your way up once you figure out the type of photographer that you are and the lenses that you have. Don't be put off if someone has a more expensive body or lenses than you, it's the person behind the camera that counts.

Good advice! Although..

I wouldn't suggest going from Auto to M purely for the fact you won't be able to troubleshoot why your photos are so over-exposed/blurry/under-exposed etc etc...

For motorsports or any type of photography where you are panning and you are just starting out, i recommend using TV (a.k.a Shutter speed priority) mode. This will allow you to change the shutter speed to a speed you can comfortably pan with but still show motion (anywhere from 1/160th & slower). The camera will control the aperture for you, therefore all you have to focus on is shutter speed and controlling your ISO.

Of course, the faster/closer you are to a car that is moving fast, you can bring your shutter speeds up and still get enough motion blur because of the speed you are panning.

Try out your cameras FPS burst as well. When using burst mode, try not to max the buffer out, but a simple burst of 3-5 shots.

I suggest not using the "Auto" focusing modes either. Choose a single point (the middle being the most accurate) and focus on composition and getting spot on focus this way. Also, do not use single shot for the AF. Change this to AI Servo (for canon) i can't remember what it is for Nikon but i think its continuous servo.

Practicing with a kit lens e.g. 55-200, 75-300 etc.. is great before spending big bucks on lenses and wondering why they aren't miraculously making spectacular images. It's all about practice and your technique. Also when using super tele's e.g. 400mm+ atmospheric haze also comes into consideration to do with sharpness e.g. heat waves in the roads. It's also much HARDER to keep the lens steady, which is why if your using lenses this long, i suggest getting a monopod until you've had practice with panning.

The main technique with panning is to have your feet pointing towards where you want to take a shot and twist your body so you can follow/track the car until it reaches your point where you want to take photo. I have found this produces more consistent results for myself and tonnes of other people, but each to there own.

Remember not to get frustrated also! Panning is super frustrating! Practice practice practice and results will come over time.

Good luck and post up some more photos!

Edited June 1, 2010 by FST513

[Aaron BNR32 GTS-T]

was such a good day! wish i took work off on the friday and went instead of only having a few hours there on sat arvo still better than not going at all

[30three]

I'm pissed at myself for trying other camera settings down there. The videos on the EOS site are great for a noob like me

[siddr20]

Good advice! Although..

I wouldn't suggest going from Auto to M purely for the fact you won't be able to troubleshoot why your photos are so over-exposed/blurry/under-exposed etc etc...

For motorsports or any type of photography where you are panning and you are just starting out, i recommend using TV (a.k.a Shutter speed priority) mode. This will allow you to change the shutter speed to a speed you can comfortably pan with but still show motion (anywhere from 1/160th & slower). The camera will control the aperture for you, therefore all you have to focus on is shutter speed and controlling your ISO.

Of course, the faster/closer you are to a car that is moving fast, you can bring your shutter speeds up and still get enough motion blur because of the speed you are panning.

Try out your cameras FPS burst as well. When using burst mode, try not to max the buffer out, but a simple burst of 3-5 shots.

I suggest not using the "Auto" focusing modes either. Choose a single point (the middle being the most accurate) and focus on composition and getting spot on focus this way. Also, do not use single shot for the AF. Change this to AI Servo (for canon) i can't remember what it is for Nikon but i think its continuous servo.

Practicing with a kit lens e.g. 55-200, 75-300 etc.. is great before spending big bucks on lenses and wondering why they aren't miraculously making spectacular images. It's all about practice and your technique. Also when using super tele's e.g. 400mm+ atmospheric haze also comes into consideration to do with sharpness e.g. heat waves in the roads. It's also much HARDER to keep the lens steady, which is why if your using lenses this long, i suggest getting a monopod until you've had practice with panning.

The main technique with panning is to have your feet pointing towards where you want to take a shot and twist your body so you can follow/track the car until it reaches your point where you want to take photo. I have found this produces more consistent results for myself and tonnes of other people, but each to there own.

Remember not to get frustrated also! Panning is super frustrating! Practice practice practice and results will come over time.

Good luck and post up some more photos!

Listen to this man

[MRSAMO]

Good advice! Although..

I wouldn't suggest going from Auto to M purely for the fact you won't be able to troubleshoot why your photos are so over-exposed/blurry/under-exposed etc etc...

For motorsports or any type of photography where you are panning and you are just starting out, i recommend using TV (a.k.a Shutter speed priority) mode. This will allow you to change the shutter speed to a speed you can comfortably pan with but still show motion (anywhere from 1/160th & slower). The camera will control the aperture for you, therefore all you have to focus on is shutter speed and controlling your ISO.

Of course, the faster/closer you are to a car that is moving fast, you can bring your shutter speeds up and still get enough motion blur because of the speed you are panning.

Try out your cameras FPS burst as well. When using burst mode, try not to max the buffer out, but a simple burst of 3-5 shots.

I suggest not using the "Auto" focusing modes either. Choose a single point (the middle being the most accurate) and focus on composition and getting spot on focus this way. Also, do not use single shot for the AF. Change this to AI Servo (for canon) i can't remember what it is for Nikon but i think its continuous servo.

Practicing with a kit lens e.g. 55-200, 75-300 etc.. is great before spending big bucks on lenses and wondering why they aren't miraculously making spectacular images. It's all about practice and your technique. Also when using super tele's e.g. 400mm+ atmospheric haze also comes into consideration to do with sharpness e.g. heat waves in the roads. It's also much HARDER to keep the lens steady, which is why if your using lenses this long, i suggest getting a monopod until you've had practice with panning.

The main technique with panning is to have your feet pointing towards where you want to take a shot and twist your body so you can follow/track the car until it reaches your point where you want to take photo. I have found this produces more consistent results for myself and tonnes of other people, but each to there own.

Remember not to get frustrated also! Panning is super frustrating! Practice practice practice and results will come over time.

Good luck and post up some more photos!

Good advice, admittedly I haven't used the other settings as much as auto and manual. I find myself using manual 65% of the time and auto for the rest. I think using manual forces you to understand your camera better and through practice and habits you already know what kind of settings you need to shoot the subject whether its in motion or not or in low light or high.

As for panning, I myself haven't done this but logic tells me that getting a monopod (or tripod) would produce a smoother rotation of the camera especially if it is front-heavy.

I haven't got a tripod but will be getting one soon, got any recommendations for under $200? I carry light so prefer something that's not too heavy.

[FST513]

Good advice, admittedly I haven't used the other settings as much as auto and manual. I find myself using manual 65% of the time and auto for the rest. I think using manual forces you to understand your camera better and through practice and habits you already know what kind of settings you need to shoot the subject whether its in motion or not or in low light or high.

As for panning, I myself haven't done this but logic tells me that getting a monopod (or tripod) would produce a smoother rotation of the camera especially if it is front-heavy.

I haven't got a tripod but will be getting one soon, got any recommendations for under $200? I carry light so prefer something that's not too heavy.

Don't get me wrong, i use Manual 24/7. It's a habit that i have got into. My dial will never move off Manual unless the light is ALWAYS constantly changing e.g. clouds/sun/clouds/sun even then i will already have exposures for both sorted out, but if i have to, i will use different modes for different situations. As long as you get the shot, that's all that matters

When your starting out, manual can be very confusing though. As i said in my previous post, trouble shooting will be too hard if you don't understand what histograms read or why its under/over exposed/no DoF/too much DoF etc etc... I was just simply advising, if you want to start panning, use TV to get used to the settings the camera sets and then when you feel comfortable switch it to Manual for more control. It's always good to expose to the right as well

Depends on what lens you are using... E.g. Panning with a 400 2.8 or bigger, is not really logical to not use a monopod. I mean, you might get some good shots but damn your arms are going to be sore! I don't use a tripod/monopod unless i'm using a 300 2.8+ simple for the fact of not getting sore arms at the end of the day.

As mentioned above, you can pick up a SLIK tripod which isn't heavy (for a good tripod) and it does everything you need with unlockable legs for wider spread (<-- that sounds really dirty haha) and adjustable centre column you can raise up and down. Otherwise i think the Manfrotto 055XBPRO its called or something like that, is around $200-$250. Before buying one, go to your local camera store and check them out for weight, ease of use and adjustability.

[GTR_driver]

Some of my personal photo's - amateur photographer with some cool kit.

Am I the only person left on the planet without a facebook page??

End of straight at turn 1 - suspension and aero .....

[MaTBoY]

get some body roll happenin!

I shot a bunch of there too. good spot!

No facebook here either man. Anti-Facebook.

[GTR_driver]

Some misc vehicles ... OK so they are all R34's ...

2 fellow Nur's in excellent condition ...