Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dunno yet. Been like that for a week. It only gets driven for 30 mins at a time, max, couple of times a week, and I avoid main roads / hot spots, etc.

Once I strip all 4 door bumpers I'll get the guard and both bumpers resprayed...should be a half decent Ceffy then.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

A fair bit of work done on this lately.

I got booted from my job which had the joys of a company car, so I'm leaning on this once again.

2hz6848.jpg

My first concern was that gearbox leak that ALWAYS, somehow came back..

I decided to revert back to 2 piece, regardless of the cost. I'd used Kermit Engineering a few times before to get some shit welded up, keep in touch with the guy on Facebook and he knew what kind of situation I'd been put into recently, so he kept the cost nice and low for me. Couple of hundred bucks it set me back. Cut the centre bearing carrier mount open, took out the broken nut, hung a new bolt in (hanging downwards like the opposite side) from the floorpan...although mounting this was going to be nearly impossible...we/he eventually decided to weld plates to the bolt and near the bolt, it actually free floats inside the floor, but stops moving around once it's tightened down with a nut.

I was worried this would still rattle around or wear out the centre bearing, but after 1 test drive, those concerns disappeared quickly. All good now, I just need to be careful when I touch those bolts anytime I'm working on the floorpan.

Big thanks to Mark for helping me out on that one. Was indeed a very unusual problem, and a massive headf**k to find a viable and realistic solution for.

The only 2 piece Cefiro tailshafts I had were in ABS length, so I needed to go back to using an ABS diff.

The only ABS diff I had....just so conveniently happened to be my Tomei 2-Way mechanical diff, which has 5 bolt driveshaft flanges.

Also just by conincidence, I couldn't find any ABS diff housings with 6 bolt flanges....and I've never been that savy about diff internals, so the Tomei mechanical went in.

I did ponder alot about what was causing issues with my clutch fan and radiators....and the clashing of the two.

After killing radiator number three and clutch fan number two, that was another point of interest.

I replaced the water pump, got my hands on ANOTHER alloy radiator, and got a very nifty electric thermo fan.

The fan mounted into the shroud ok, but I ended up removing it from the shroud and mounting it hard up on the radiator with a very small spacer in between.

2wnai5k.jpg

For comparison, WITHOUT the shroud, this is how close it sits to the motor. With a retail of over $400 I'd rather not run it any closer.

71sb9w.jpg

42jwo.jpg

Wiring the fan up was a bit of a head-f**k in itself.

The temp switch at the bottom of the radiator (which triggers the smaller fan to the passenger side up front) happens to be the same thread size and pitch as the trigger/sensor for the fans relay, so I pulled that sensor out, and wired both the aftermarket thermo fan (pull) and the air-con overheat fan up front (push) to the same wires, off the same relay, triggered by the temp switch.

The switch has a trigger range of 85 degrees on, 80 degrees off. The Alloy radiator is doing it's job probably too well, as currently, the relay hasn't triggered the fans on, not once....both when idling and under load. I've checked the switch and relay and both are in working order. It's weird. The temp still runs cooler than it used to with stock radiator / ISC alloy radiator (bigger than this one) / GTR radiator.

2qbvgpc.jpg

This is what happens when your RB20DET very badly needs a tune, and sits without running for weeks on end.

Other shit I've done:

Re-seated my air con ducts behind dash, for better air flow

Broke my air con controls, for no air flow at all

Wired up the clcok on the Laurel dash....this amazingly works, is well lit up, and it stays on time!!

Plans for next fortnight:

Get it detailed by a pro

Darkest legal tint

Respray guard, bumpers, couple of other spots

Photoshoot (Stay tuned)

Edited by Nic_A31

Toffy:

You should definately finish the purple one, that one is awesome!

Kris:

The shaft on my water pump had a very little amount of play, possible that the bearing was gonners. I replaced the water pump with a brand newie, soo far it hasn't scratched my thermo fan. Other than that, no idea, was a very very odd problem...I was suprised especially the first time, since it had well over 60mm clearance between the fan and the stock radiator.

Apparently quiet common for the bearings to go and slip the fan forwards and into the radiator, so that would be my best guess.

It's a bit hard to say in my position if I've definately fixed it. I replaced water pump, went thermo fans, new radiator rubber mounts top and bottom, 2 piece driveshaft, and (not yet installed) new engine and gearbox mounts.

no idea what was making the fan go into the rad? ive got the same problem

your water pump would be new yes? what type was it? . i couldn't see the whole engine/gearbox flexing that far?

Toffy:

You should definately finish the purple one, that one is awesome!

it was kinda , looks pig atm :( std 33 rims , still half damaged rear guard pieces hanging out of inside it everywhere , i bought a r34 so it went on the back burner for a bit , once i finish the 34 i will get back to it (like with the laurel :blush: ) , i may have another one very soon aaaand a mate rang me today to tell me of one in tas wrecking! pilfer time!:banana:

your water pump would be new yes? what type was it? . i couldn't see the whole engine/gearbox flexing that far?

it was kinda , looks pig atm :( std 33 rims , still half damaged rear guard pieces hanging out of inside it everywhere , i bought a r34 so it went on the back burner for a bit , once i finish the 34 i will get back to it (like with the laurel :blush: ) , i may have another one very soon aaaand a mate rang me today to tell me of one in tas wrecking! pilfer time!:banana:

Can't remember the brand name off the top of my head, it's a brand newie, but just a standard replacement.

It's possible that it's a combination of the motor mounts and the water pump bearing.

When I did the clutch, I tilted the engine, I picked the engine up from that bracket that constrains the alternator pulley which rigs up to 2 bolts on the water pump (as well as 2 other points)....I may have twisted the pump or somehow pushed the fins on the pump into the block when I did that.

On the A31 and R32 radiators, the pattern that the fan dug into the radiator cut in a semi circle on the right hand side of the radiator, on the big ISC it dug almost an entire circle but again the right hand side had a deaper cut into the radiator, so whatever was going off balance was biased to the right side. That's why I thought maybe the 1 piece driveshaft was pushing the gearbox out to the right side at high revs, in turn twisting the engine and putting the right side of the clutch fan's rotation closer to the radiator. But now I remember when I rolled up at my mate's place with the R32 radiator pissing out coolant, I free revved it to 7000rpm and the fan took out 3 big chunks off the radiator shroud (one chunk must've missed my mate's face by mere inches) so I guess it was the bearing.

The shaft play was really not alot, to feel it the pump needed to be mounted to the motor or in a vice so you could actually get some leverage. Still, the brand spanker new one has no shaft play at all.

I had probably half a dozen people look at it, and were all baffled by how it kept managing to do what it did.

Your purple Ceffy sounds like my primer grey Ceffy, in a bazillion pieces and as bunky as they come - so keep going on yours, so I've got motivation to keep going on mine. :D

could it be a rad support / chassis strength problem in the front causing a slight ammount of flex?

previous crash so everything isnt aligned?

Some may call me a spastic, but I dont see how a water pump can make the fan move that much..

lol at Kris's signature

  • 4 weeks later...

Cosmetic updates:

Removed those horrible door bumpers on the driver's side.

suy72a.jpg25hlizc.jpg

Passenger side is yet to be done, but atleast the passenger side look(s)/(ed) decent before I rip the bumpers off.

2zpp47b.jpg

Cleared some room in the car port, striped back the spare guard. It's sitting in primer at the moment.

Going to let it sit out in the sun for a couple of days before I put it on. Ceffy will be multi-colored again but atleast it'll have a proper guard on it, and grey pulls way less attention than black.

33kx8iu.jpg

314pdm0.jpg

Stay tuned for more updates.

Edited by Nic_A31

Put out the word I was after some camber arms, had a couple of people make some offers but ended up taking a last second offer for some Cusco arms.

2qjgeas.jpg

2hyhr1g.jpg

Gotta take some more pics later on of the car how it sits now.

I'm happy with it's stance now, going to leave it as is. Guards don't need rolling/flaring, don't need any spacers. Just naturally good wheel fitment, and it looks good.

Fitted up that primed guard, car stands out a bit the way it is, so I might (yet again) revert back to the dented guard until panel work is organised.

10hstty.jpg

Finally got off my arse today and finished the door bumpers.

so3b54.jpg

ienz0o.jpg

At first it came up a bit yucky, looking a little yellowish, and I couldn't get rid of alot of the dirt, but after some degreaser, a quick buff and a drenching, it turned up alright.

2lks9k8.jpg

A while ago I got around to fitting this late model auto console.

Big thanks to Fatz for sending me these.

1125vrq.jpg

As you can see, it doesn't quiet match up to the manual armrest console, but with some trimming of that joining piece it should do the trick.

I might see if I can use an R33 console instead (refer to topic I posted a while ago about these consoles).

Car is booked in this Tuesday for darkest legal tint and a wheel alignment.

I also got my local YahooJapan broker dude to lay down the winning bid on THIS for me.

Bee*R, 3-in. cat back exhaust for A31/C33.

2dgkfsy.jpg

2aq9oi.jpg

14ce34l.jpg

Was up for around $110 or so, but didn't get it when it was Buy-It-Now, so ended up bidding on it and scored it for around $88.

SCORE!

It's a little bit banged up, but in much better shape than my current exhaust, and I've got BeeR bragging rights now.

Waiting for that to be shipped to Japan yard, then it's on container to Perth.

Edited by Nic_A31

I made a thread about it out in the main section.

http://www.skylinesa...ng-door-bumper/

What I did was soaked the f**k out of it with "bug and tar remover", which softens up the glue, and the scraped it off with a razor blade for a scraper.

the first 2-5 runs takes off most of the glue, gotta keep spraying that stuff on it though, and then after that, either keep scraping along, or run circles keeping the blade facing (relatively) the same direction, that gets off most of the really thin stuff, just keep doing it until it's all gone, you'll see when it's all gone by the difference in the clear coat.

You'll cut the clear coat at least once per door but that's nothing that buffing can't fix.

Also whatever you do, don't heat it up like some Google research sugguests. I tried this on my old dented door, and all it did was break down the glue and it spreads all over the door, which makes it harder to clean.

Keep the glue cool, soften in, and scrape it off.

Edited by Nic_A31

lol Sounds like too much effort for mycar, paints f**ked and its got a dent in every panel. I might just start getting itready for paint and sand that shit off.

I wish i kept my r33 gtr wheels tho, i liked them but sold them for lots of profits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • best advice yet.  so between the elite and the nexus... much of a difference?  cost is damn near identical (only $170 difference).  thank you!!!
    • Hi everyone, I've found some free time to write up my "build thread" which is 10% 'build' and 90% fixing problems of a skyline that has endured a lifetime of abuse. I will start with the backstory & get everyone up to speed. Ever since I was just a teenager in high school I have had a spot in my heart for the shape of an R32 rivaled only by the look of an S13, my mates & I all having overly ambitious dreams as one does about having the sickest car in the school carpark. Unfortunately I started my journey of cars down the path of the Silvia and after spending years of putting up with the underwhelming SR20 life I dipped my toes into the 1J Toyota pool for a small moment until my true compass brought me back to that incomplete dream of an R32. At this point the trawl through marketplace, gumtree, carsales etc. starts looking Aus wide for an affordable example in the current economy which was extremely barebones compared to the good old days of sub 10k cars everywhere. Out of the handful of cars in the budget at the time I settled on a 1992 R32 GTS-T that was located in Adelaide. It had caught my eyes as it was similar price to the others on the east coast and had been RB25DET NEO converted and an open door respray in a custom colour based off TH1. It was also a stand out to me because it already had some NSW registration left which saved me the hassle of getting it on the road in my state. As for mods I was told it was pretty stock other than the motor swap, a nistune to run it, and an unknown fuel pump. My first mistake was trusting the seller blindly that the car was in good condition in all aspects and decided to purchase the car unseen other than some walkaround videos & pictures as the flights down there were very expensive at the time. The price of getting it transported to my door from Adelaide from Sydney was surprisingly cheaper than the flights at the time. I was told the few issues it apparently had was only 1 speaker not working, some cracked or missing trims, and it had been rear ended at some point but had been all professionally repaired (this is all foreshadowing at this point). I paid for the car, and then booked the interstate transport. Now at this point save your criticism as I already know how stupid I sound in hindsight, this was a major lapse of judgement and I accept the problems that followed. I spent the next 2 weeks in a crazed excitement knowing I am finally the owner of an R32 & that it was on its way. I started preparing as when negotiating with the seller I opted out of the Lenso wheels as they aren't really my style & I wanted a set of genuine wheels, and the bucket seats in the car as I am 6ft5 and not the skinniest guy so I had my predictions that I wouldn't fit in them anyway. Due to this the car was put on a set of R33 stockies and some average condition R33 seats that he had laying around. While I waited for the car to arrive I went and picked up a pair of R32 seats and some R32 GTR wheels to fit nicely on it once it had arrived. Being the first time I had done anything like this or had a car transported interstate I had no clue how the logistics of it were, I chose my work as the delivery address assuming it would arrive at some point in the middle of the day. You can imagine my surprise when I wake up to a call from the truck at 5:30am telling me his about 20 minutes away. When I tell you that was the fastest drive to work I have ever done, I managed to catch up to the truck before it even got there. Spent the hours before work taking in the car and living my first experience with one, I had never even been inside one so I spent some time getting familiar with the interior before doing the seat swap. Here is my first proper photo of it as the sun rose in the background. I also noticed it had the switch for the electronic front lip which was a pleasant surprised but sadly upon looking it didn't actually have the lip or the motors or even any wiring behind the switch. As I swapped the seats, the extremely questionable history of the car started to show itself starting with some really dodgy seatbelt buckles that had been extended for some reason with horrendous welds. This was followed by me noticing the drivers side front was quite bent up to which the owner then decided to let me know it had been hit in the front at the same time as the rear end. It also had a pretty leaky power steering rack and the pump was screaming for its life. By now I was a little on edge but I had to get to work for the day, I sent the car down to my mechanic to get the fluids changed and a general check over as I started to question what I had got myself into. I packed the GTR wheels into the car to get put on while it was there as I ran out of time which was a struggle because the handle to release the fuel door/boot was non-existent and just had the end of the cable tied to a bolt. It wasn't much of a surprise when I got a call saying that it looked like the fluids hadn't been done in quite some time. Although that didn't come as a shock, it did catch me off guard when I was told he couldn't open the boot which had the wheels in which I just had open not long before. Mission #1 was to squeeze through the back panel and open the boot from the latch while loaded with a set of wheels which to my amazement he pulled off after a bit of a struggle to reveal there was nothing holding the cable mechanism in place where it sits at the fuel cap. After that dilemma was solved the mechanic did an inspection over the car while on the hoist with nothing too interesting being found other than the expected crushed frame rails. It seems to have had some bilstein shocks installed at some point and judging by the AWD sump that has been sealed up I suspect the NEO is out of a stagea. By the time I got the car back and was ready to have my first drive home in it I was still excited but now quite anxious with the car already. First stop was to the servo to get a nice fresh tank of fuel as I had no idea how long it may have been sitting around for before I bought it. It sat quite nicely on the GTR stockies I must say. Now my drive home from work is short only being a 15-20 minute commute so the chances of anything going wrong is quite small right? WRONG. As I go over a speed bump only 100m from home I start to smell the dreaded smell of electrical burning and my lights drop out and shortly after the car dies. I am in extreme panic at this point thinking the car is going to burn down on its first drive before I have even had a chance to insure it. I move to the bonnet as quick as I can and lift it up, and as I go to grab the bonnet prop my brain is in such a frenzy that it takes me a second to realise my hand is being burnt to a crisp. This is where I notice that there is no plastic clip for the bonnet stay and when I have gone over the speed bump it has knocked the stay onto the positive terminal of the battery welding itself there. Levering it off with a nearby stick I sat there for a few minutes making sure nothing was going to burn down while waiting for a mate to come jump start me. My main stress was that I could've absolutely cooked the ECU or any other electrics. I was relieved when the car started fine with jumper leads on it but it would die as soon as the headlights were turned on so I carefully limped it home with no lights and decided it was a tomorrow task. You can see here where the stand sat on the positive terminal. Thankfully with a new battery the car behaved and seemed healthy. It was pretty smooth sailing for a little while getting to enjoy dailying the car. Interior wise it was pretty much as the seller described except for the the lack of working speakers, the digital controls had no power, and the headunit would randomly turn off & on. I installed a quick release I had laying around from an old car to help with getting in & out of the car and a nice momo wheel. I bought some oem side skirts to match the rear pods that were on the car already, who said a skyline can't be a practical parts mover. Test fit looks good! Found a good deal on a GTR wing & boot that I couldn't turn down. At this point the skyline was being too good to me and had to throw the spanner in the works again. First incident was as I was coming off the motorway and heard a bang and an awful grinding noise. As I pull over down a side street to investigate I notice my whole exhaust has basically fallen off and is dragging on the ground. After waiting around to let it cool to the touch I managed to get it back on its hangers. Thinking it was a weird 1-off instance I didn't think much of it until it happened to me again a few days later to which I see this time the middle hanger has snapped in half and the rear hangers have snapped at the welds. I manage to get the car in to a shop to get the hangers welded and while there I notice that my intercooler has broken its brackets and was being held up only by the piping. Quickly got that sorted and got some thicker brackets out of steel plate to support it all. Just when you thought at this point the car might give me a break, I fill the car up on my way home from the fabricators shop and after I pay I walk back to a good portion of my liquid gold on the floor. I just shrug it off at this point in exhaustion and call it a job for another day. The car had other plans for me though as the next morning on my commute to work, I am halfway there when I notice I am struggling to shift gears. I get lucky with a run of no red lights to work and find some time on my lunch break to investigate the problem. The slave wasn't leaking and the master still had fluid so I was left confused until I contorted myself under the dash and noticed the whole pedal moving loosely side to side when pushed in. Upon pulling it out of the car I found it to be multiple snapped spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket and the actual face of the pedal that sits against the firewall had snapped in half. I jerry rigged it with nuts & bolts at the spot welds but I will need to come back to this in the future and replace with one of the strengthened nismo brackets available. I then got to enjoy the car for another 2 months of cruising and dailying it, peep the obnoxious fireballs it would shoot every shift on the dodgy tune that was on there. On a sunday drive in that period of working car, I was on my way home on the motorway when I heard a slapping noise on my front left to which I pulled over to find my indicator had ejected itself from the car. Nothing a bit of tape can fix lol. I then bought some smoked indicators but after I realised I didn't like the look I found some damaged series 1 indicators. I repaired the tabs with some cut up cards and they looked good to me. My next venture was the hunt for some wheels, I test fit my mates Work Equip Spinning that were tiny 15" and I wasn't sold on the small wheel look. I ended up finding a killer deal on some Rays Volk Racing Group C in 17x8.5 & 17x9 that had been rebuilt many years ago and not ran on a car. I am still yet to get these on the car as they require some specific adapters and shank style lug nuts but I think they will look awesome. At this point my 2 months of reliability had ran out and on a cruise with some friends I suddenly lost the ability to shift gears again and thankfully could get it home by taking main roads and not having to stop. This time my master cylinder was bone dry and the culprit was the clutch slave that had decided to let go. It was a quick and fairly easy fix, but in my luck bad things always come in waves. Only a few weeks later I am on my way home from World Time Attack when the car completely shuts off while coasting down a hill, I try crank it while I still have momentum but no luck. Thinking I might have killed the fuel pump from running it low or maybe killed a CAS because the symptoms seemed to line up somewhat, I opt to get the car towed to a workshop to get fixed up on the Monday. When it gets there they get stuck into diagnosis and the CAS wasn't sending a signal to the ECU, and the fuel pump was also dead so it was comical for a small moment there. They replace the dead fuel pump when one of them notices some smoke coming from the passenger kick panel. Boy oh boy this is where it gets very bad and very expensive. I am not sure who wired the car when the NEO swap was done originally but I hope they never attempt auto electrical again as I am lucky that this handywork only managed to short and kill the ecu and engine loom and not do more damage. This is the point where you could say the 'build' started but not by choice. After some deliberation with my bank account I opted for a Haltech Elite 2500, RB terminated loom, and WB1. While I wish I stopped there and did the minimum of get the car running and leave it at that, I slipped into the rabbithole and decided I wanted to make the most of getting a retune and throw some bolt ons at it and see what it would do. I then threw together a bit of a mix n match build of marketplace deals starting with a GCG GTX3076R, a turbosmart FPR6, 980cc injectors, walbro 460, jackspanian ffp, throttle & fuel rail. At this point it was coming along nicely, the shop was making quick work of it and the bay was looking a lot nicer without the stock crossover intake. I also got them to replace the noisy centre bearing while it was off the road. Then we couldn't get an OEM CAS to talk to the haltech so ended up getting a PRP Street Trigger Kit for it.   While the car wasn't playing nice it decided to kill the stock alternator too so went with an LS1 alternator conversion kit. By now the car was pretty much done and ready to go but come tune day the car kept throwing the timing out every time it would warm up. Upon further investigation it seemed to be warping the PRP trigger bracket when the metal would get hot and expand which would cause the sensor to lose timing as it moves. Herman advised that they have seen the issue a few times now and don't know what the cause is. At this point I decided to switch to the PRP Pro kit with the crank trigger and considering the whole timing belt would have to come off I decided to get a new timing belt kit with water pump fitted. The car would now run fine with no issues and it was finally tune time. It ran up a healthy 275kw but ran out of boost due at 17psi to the rear housing being undersized. At this point the clutch also started slipping and due to it still being a weak RB20 box the tuner set it up to ramp from 8psi up to 17psi with the revs so that it wouldn't load up the clutch and box as hard. Car drives like a dream now. With the car back on the road I could return my focus to the smaller details, starting with getting a set of badges for the hood and quarters. I was struggling to drive with shoes on and I noticed that my accelerator pedal sits higher than my brake and clutch, if someone could confirm how it should sit that would be great. Next little changes was a killallwipers rear windscreen wiper delete, I also got some interior bits I was missing such as parcel shelf speaker covers, wiper trim cover, and boot floor and trims. Finally made it to a SAU NSW event which was awesome to cruise with a bunch of likeminded individuals. Another creature comfort I decided to look into was my lack of A/C. Since the Haltech got wired up the digital climate would power up now, and would blow but no cold air. First issue noticed was the lack of belt on the A/C compressor. After sorting that to no avail, it also had no A/C gas in it, but turns out the condenser has a huge leak. We are almost caught up on the story so far, but at the start of this month while coming into a driveway I heard a huge clunk in the front end to which I got out to witness whatever dodgy camber arms someone installed in this at some point decided to snap in half and I feel very lucky that it didn't happen at speed. Managed to get the car fixed the next day with some replacement GKtech arms. Next problem to address was the leaking gas tank from months ago. Checked the pump hanger seal first but that was fine, stuck my camera up after filling up to try scope out the leak which looked like the breather hose. Got the car up on a hoist prepared to drop the tank when I reached up to feel with my hand and I could feel that the hose clamp was missing and soon after felt that there was a gaping hole in the top of the hose. Replaced and tested and the car holds its liquid now and doesn't give me a fume headache whenever I drive it now. Finally have caught up and now onto fixing my latest issue which is the lack of dash light when driving at night, checked fuses first, then when searching I found the common problem of the headlight switch burning out but mine looks fine. Next test will be plugging a known working headlight switch into my car to tell if my switch is dead. Sorry for the long read but I wanted to be thorough, so if anyone made it this far I salute you soldier. Enjoy the rest of your day and I will keep this updated with issues I find/solve and any cool mods I can do inbetween. Merry Xmas!
    • can someone tell me what information a block number of 330680a on a rb25det engine specifies?
    • Would you suggest staying with a twin setup but upgraded turbos  ?
×
×
  • Create New...