Jump to content
SAU Community

drivers side parker light

_turtle_

By _turtle_,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

hey denny, i managed to change my drivers side parker without removing anything. i just jammed my hand into the small space you have to work with (hand got a little bit grazed) and fiddled around until i could undo the plug. my hands are fairly big so you should be able to manage it mate :rofl:

Greg

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hehe good idea mooks, i'll get the missus to do it. thanks for info guys. the passenger side is easy, theres plenty of room where the pod is. but the drivers side is very tight, got the coolant and all the other crap there.

will try use tweezers or something.

cheers

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
hehe good idea mooks, i'll get the missus to do it.  thanks for info guys.  the passenger side is easy, theres plenty of room where the pod is.  but the drivers side is very tight, got the coolant and all the other crap there.  

will try use tweezers or something.

cheers

I had the opposite problem. My drivers side headlight blew so i thought I'd change em both. The drivers side was a piece of piss but on the passengers side I had to remove both of the pods. It was a c*** of a job. Mainly because I'm all thumbs when it comes to fiddly things.

Alan

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok guys, i've taken another look, i still can not even get close to fitting a hand there. also we're talking about the "PARKER" light, as in the little one. not the headlight, the headlight is simple. i've uploaded some pics, unless my car is different i don't see how u can fit ur hand there.

cheers

** damn, can't upload pics again. **

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

denny ya mofo.....the drivers side is the easiest one of the two to get out ya fool. all u do is stick ur fingers in the HOLE PROVIDED and quarter turn to the left. lefty loosy righty tighty:D:D if u still cant do it and dont mind drivin down to springy ill do it for ya. oh and tweesers wont work either.

you dont need to take the headlight out....thats just overkill:D:D

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

unbelievable, my whole drivers side lights are all gone. its not the globes either coz i replaced the headlight and it still doesn't turn on. the parker light, headlight, high beam is all out on my car. can't be a fuse else both sides would be out. plus i fiddled around with the fuses too and it didn't make any difference. now has anyone got any ideas as to which wire maybe loose or something? where its located?

thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...
_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok fella's, all front lights are now working again :D except for the parker one which has a blown globe. headlamp and highbeam is back, if this ever happens to anyone else, try changing the fuse located in the boot. its a 20A fuse.

forgot about the fuses at the back, i played around with all the ones at the front and it didn't help.

cheers

Bobjones Mentor

Bobjones

Posted
Posted

Well I attempted this mission on the weekend, as well as radiator flush and coolant change, front strut brace innergaurd removal on drivers side due to being broken and flapping around...

Now the hardest part of the whole damn thing was the grill removal that took 20 minutes for me to work out how the fudge to remove it WITHOUT breaking it...

As I was cleaning the overflow tank for the radiator which required the removal of the washer reserviour and the movement of the power box thing out the way I decided to remove the headlight as well, piece of cake...no need for a jack either to remove innergaurd, now I can confirm that you can take apart most nissans with a 10mm spanner and socket, and a couple of screwdrivers...

Also I checked the bulb holder had a pile of crap around it and would not turn easily despite my vain attempts while still installed.

So now all nice clean coolant and a parker bulb that works!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels.  Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...