Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Done The Tie Rod Ends On A '94 R33 Gtst And...


Recommended Posts

Over the weekend, I put new Tie Rod ends and Steering Rack boots on the S1 '94 R33 GTST and I think I have a few problems.

First off, the steering boots were easy to put on - I'm glad I got them done!

Now, here is the problem, I've fitted the tie rod ends (burson part number TE 926-14) and they seem to fit perfectly, with plenty of room to adjust for the alignment

BUT, I now have a huge issue and I'm not sure if it's the alignment (I know have I have to get one after removing the lock thread nut to replace the rack boots) or something has gone horribly wrong.

I've taken the car for a test drive and the steering feels really sloppy and lose (almost like there is no load on the tyres), the tyres squeal like mad (and are wearing on the outer edge) and the car, oddly enough, tends to drive in a straight line - which is really strange.

I've noticed that if I turn medium to hard right, the steering wheel wants to fling itself all the way to the right on its own.

I did a real quick alignment using string matched up with the untouched rear wheels, but this didn't seem to do anything at all.

Everything else on the car was functioning as normal prior to me swapping the tie rods ends.

The Tie rods as bolted in as part as they will go with the castle nut and that seems to be on par with the removed/old tie rod ends that had rotted rubbers.

Any thoughts?

I'm worried that its not the alignment as the steering behaviour is really odd and the tyers squealing madly with evident tyre wear on the outer edge on both tyres.

Cheers.

PS: The car is competely stock - only mod is a stereo and front sway bar.

Edited by weSky
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of tie rod ends did you put on it? It sounds to me like you've got too much toe in. I would definitely be having a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

If you live in Brisbane, bring it to me at City Suspension, Slacks Creek.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of tie rod ends did you put on it? It sounds to me like you've got too much toe in. I would definitely be having a wheel alignment as soon as possible.

If you live in Brisbane, bring it to me at City Suspension, Slacks Creek.

I used a Burson part number TE 926-14. They seem to fit perfectly and were a match up to the old ones, albeit maybe no more than 10mm short on the shaft/screw in part.

I'm hoping it's alignment, but if it is, it's really really bad!

Unfortunately, I'm down in Melb.

I'm not driving it as it is unsafe - but I will run it in to a workshop on Wednesday.

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how did u go with this? sounds strange as soon as i replaced my outer tie rod ends, my alignment was out but the steering felt more direct and firm.... and got rid of this small vibration i had at speed.... also r33 have a few different part numbers depending on series maybe you have the wrong part?

Edited by rgr34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...