Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking about selling my RB30/26det, its currently in an R32 gts-t four door and making 465hp at the wheels. I've spent a lot of time and money on this car but I don't get time to use it and I'm not dedicated enough to take it to the track anymore. If I use it on the track I'm spending time and money that would be better spent with my 1.5year old and 1 month old girls. However I absolutely love this car, driving it is like nothing else I've experienced. Engine had a freshen up about a month ago when I pulled it out to put tomei oil pump and head oil drain on.

Would like $20k for the whole lot but I'd like to hear offers too

1989 R32 Gts-t

-RB30 Crank

-Precision Rods

-ARP rod bolts

-ACL race bearings

-ARIAS forged pistons

-Tomei oil pump

-Jun crank collar

-4 layer MLSR steel head gasket (could be wrong about brand cant remember)

-1mm head oil restriction and one blocked off

-std GTR cams

-1inch custom head oil drain

-Head ported by Darren at Lewis Engines

-Modified larger sump with head oil drain and catch can inlets

-T04z turbo

-Trust high mount manifold

-Trust waste gate

-Greddy Y intake

-std GTR plenum, inlet manifold and throttle bodies

-800cc SARD injectors

-Malpasi fuel reg

-GTR engine wiring loom (modified to suit car)

-Power FC D-jetro (maps sensors, GTR plug ecu)

-alloy radiator

-FMIC with 3 inch custom piping

-4 liter custom catch can

-Rear mount battery

-R33 5 speed

-5 puk clutch

-Custom one piece tail shaft

-Kazz 2-way diff

-HSD coil overs

-Shortened front upper control arms

-Adjustable caster rods

-R33 GTR V-Spec front rotors

-Alloy pineapples

-Drift Teks 17x9.5 +15

-Nicely streched rear gaurds

-Hicas lock bar (lines removed)

-Nismo or better fuel pump (cant remember again sorry)

-Nardi stering wheel

-Cobra bucket seats

-Drivers Harness

-Hydrolic handbrake

Probably left a few things out. Also have some spares like 25mm spacers and a few wheels like 16's and 17's although some wont fit over the bigger front brakes. Paints not the best but no rust or damage just not matched properly from where the guards have been done and boot holes fixed. I will try and take new pics if I get around to cleaning it. Only pics I have are from back when I drifted it with the RB20. Haven't drifted the RB30 yet but I might if I find some friends to go to a drift practice with. Car can be registered and has been till early this year however there are some things to be aware of with registering a vehicle with an engine like this.

Thanks people

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321807-eoi-rb3026det-and-car/
Share on other sites

Forgot Apexi AVC-R boost controller and strut brace front and rear. Also power is at 16psi, if you wanted more power all you need is better fuel lines, fuel rail etc and to turn up the boost. 16psi is minimum boost with this waste gate.

  • 4 weeks later...

Happy to sell engine, turbo, gearbox, tail shaft, wiring and ecu as a package. Will bolt straight into R32 Gts-t and should also fit straight into R33 (Not sure about bonnet height tho)

Engine (full engine with all running gear minus power steering pump and air conditioning)

Turbo (on engine with y intake kit and waste gate)

Gearbox (would leave on engine with 5puk clutch)

Tail shaft

Power FC (with map sensors and hand controller)

GTR engine loom with resistor pack for injectors

All sensors, injectors, coilpacks, head oil drain and turbo lines

$14,000

Depending what car it would be going into I also have modified speedo sender and cross member for the RB25 gearbox, inter cooler + piping and radiator and dump pipe Y to waste gate etc.

Hooked up a battery charger today so I can do a compression test if I get time tomorrow. Took a couple pics, needs a clean, lots of dust from it sitting in storage last few months.

post-16618-1277539915_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1277540033_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1277540136_thumb.jpg

Trying to reply to all PM's but I can only send one every half hour for some reason so sorry if I miss one or you don't get a reply straight away.

Did a cold compression test all were between the 125psi and 130psi marks. Car is running but not registered.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've had no serious offers so I'm going to look at parting it out but keeping car so I can sell it cheap later with a RB25det.

First part up for grabs is the turbo kit $3000 for T04z, manifold, waste gate, Y pipe, all lines and S bend (cast turbo to inter cooler pipe).

I thought the compression test was a little low and I just found out why, there is a rubber o-ring missing where the spark plug thread adapter screws on, without it it screws up to far. Also just been told that I should be doing the test hot with all spark plugs out and throttle open which I wasn't doing before so I'll give it another try this weekend.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...Pe-t327866.html

New thread for parting out.

Power FC not sold, got a bit ahead of myself.

Price change to $12,000 ono for complete engine package

Price change to $17,000 ono for full car

Compression test redone, much better, pics attached aprox 150 over all. Engine was about 50-60degrees so not hot but still warm and throttle was held open unlike last time.

Also found video of last event I did, just small mucking around stuff.

post-16618-1278729687_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1278729837_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1278729912_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1278729984_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1278730066_thumb.jpg

post-16618-1278730133_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So been ocd with timing mark but checked from few angle and seems both cam are on and crank is matching as well to the slot on sump and crank pully   i noticed crankshaft cover has been robbed as per attached pic. Any ideas why? Could my balancer or harmonic be on its way out? should I replace the cover? https://ibb.co/ZR1JFYRR
    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
×
×
  • Create New...