Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you got any play in your steering linkages that might be causing the problem?

Also, the problem might be emphasized with the movement of the steering box because you're trying to mix 2 systems that were never designed to be that way.

I haven't entertained the possibility, other than look into a 280ZX set up, but my thoughts go to the movement the steering box system tolerates. The R n P system has virtually zero play as the rack is firmly mounted to the crossmember or firewall, where as the steering box system has some tolerated play from the flexing steering box to the linkages to the strut.

Ozdat do a steering box brace for Datto 1600, but don't do anything for the D/H/MR30. It's something I have been working on for a few months now, but as yet haven't produced a prototype for testing, as the Skynats have taken preferrence over everything else.

A brace of this nature would go a long way to eliminating the movement issue.

Cheers, D

i understand wat your sayin, ive made my own steering box brace, idler bushs and drag links all replaced.. its like comparing a 19 year old to a 30 year old women, the 19 year olds tight and fresh, and the 30 year olds old and loose, it is wat it is

ive figured out if u lenghtn the adjuster this will only give u more thread,(and would be alot safer) 2 get the ends to sit propally will need longer ends or hubs modified..

off to pickn pay on weekend to c wat i can come across

Thinking about it Dennis.

Your car may sit a little lower than mine if the L28 is much heavier than the FJ20

I bounced your current set up off Toperformance in Melbourne, so it will be interesting to see what their opinion is eh?

If it's not what I want, I will be doing something similar I guess, but I'll get some springs made by Allsprings at Liverpool and at my specs.

Thanks, D

Response from Toperformance for interest sake!

The part numbers quoted are from all over the place, so I cannot say what

the resulting heights will be, as the car/spring combination is not recorded

in the data base.

It would seem to me that the final spring fitted to the front might be a bit

underdone in initial rate, allowing the car to crash onto the bump stops,

but this is speculation on my part.

Be interesting to see how it handles on the weekend at your competition day?

Cheers, D

i understand wat your sayin, ive made my own steering box brace, idler bushs and drag links all replaced.. its like comparing a 19 year old to a 30 year old women, the 19 year olds tight and fresh, and the 30 year olds old and loose, it is wat it is

ive figured out if u lenghtn the adjuster this will only give u more thread,(and would be alot safer) 2 get the ends to sit propally will need longer ends or hubs modified..

off to pickn pay on weekend to c wat i can come across

I don't know if this would be an answer to your problem, but would a spacer between the strut base and the steering arm change the angle enough to cure your problem?

Cheers, D

I don't know if this would be an answer to your problem, but would a spacer between the strut base and the steering arm change the angle enough to cure your problem?

Cheers, D

yea need to be a bigger balljoint cos of the s13 hubs. would help the bump steer problem, i no u can get em 4 s13s etc, weather they can be pressed into r30 arms have nfi

if it was standard strut ass. be allot easier to get right

im about to do this setup for my r30 i used to work at pedders and still have access to a large number of different tie rod ends and steering arms the only thing i can think of is to get a longer tie rod that can have a spacer put between the tie rod and the hub where it mounts lowering the arm a little im sure i can find something that will work? pics of what you have would be great

im about to do this setup for my r30 i used to work at pedders and still have access to a large number of different tie rod ends and steering arms the only thing i can think of is to get a longer tie rod that can have a spacer put between the tie rod and the hub where it mounts lowering the arm a little im sure i can find something that will work? pics of what you have would be great

[/quote

sounds good! ill throu sum pics up asap, just need to fix my camera

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...