Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

while having negative camber will always wear out the inside edge of the tyres more than even camber, but with adjusting the toe of the wheels you can reduce that wear. that is what people are trying to say above. hoever you want toe in, not toe out to reduce the wear on the inside edge.

on my pulsar i had minimal camber (was stock height. it was under 0.5 degrees), but i had about 2.2mm of toe out and it was scrubbing the inside edge of the tyres pretty quickly, as well as causing extra torque steer.

lol, hat's a bit better :P i may have mis-interpreted what you originally said, but i thought you were offering a "run heaps of camber and get even tyre wear" kind of solution :D

lol, yep i was in the same boat to, thats what i thought mike was saying, and i couldn't get my head around it. thanks for clearing that up Mike,

in my opinion this is an example of a pretty decent alignment on a stagea (kiwirs4's)

Front toe = zero

Rear toe = -2mm

Front camber = 1 degree negative

Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5

I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber.

Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative

Edited by M I K E
lol, yep i was in the same boat to, thats what i thought mike was saying, and i couldn't get my head around it. thanks for clearing that up Mike,

ah, nah, sorry guys. was just pointing out that you can get decent life out of your tyres even if you run alot of camber, most people seem to forget that they are changing all aspects of suspension geometry when they lower their cars but because they can see that they have increased negative camber they automatically attribute accelerated rear tyre wear to running more camber

So too Adjust the toe-in or toe-out...Is there something one will need to purchase? The inside of my tyres that came on the car from japan are so worn down i can see the tyre mesh shit.

man this flood control sucks haha

well if you have exposed canvas or belts then i hope you have them replaced already? lol

assuming your car doesn't have hicas, the standard toe arms have some adjustment where they bolt up to the cradle with an eccentric bolt. if that's not enough for you, you can get aftermarket toe rods which have loads more adjustment in them

man this flood control sucks haha

well if you have exposed canvas or belts then i hope you have them replaced already? lol

assuming your car doesn't have hicas, the standard toe arms have some adjustment where they bolt up to the cradle with an eccentric bolt. if that's not enough for you, you can get aftermarket toe rods which have loads more adjustment in them

Well only discoverd it Thursday morning, So car hasn't been drivin since. Booked in for a good service early next week, tyres some new brake lines, cv boots and fluids. Ill get him too see how much he can adjust the toe rods, if it is to no avail, ill have to look into aftermarket ones...or raise the car haha.

This maybe a stupid question but when adjusting ride hight with coilovers do you have LHS the same as RHS? I had the two fronts the same and the two backs the same but it seemed to sit higher on the left hand side, I am in the proses of taking them back out to check whether i stuffed the measurements up.

I measured before taking it apart and it was 9mm high on LHF and 5mm at LHR, I will find out tomorrow night if I have stuffed up,

The reason I ask is cars are normally higher on one side to allow for the drop off on the roads but that would be determined from the coilovers???

If you have installed coilovers have you set them all the same????

cheers

with coilovers, your supposed to corner weight them so you get both sides of the car holding the same weight

not may places have corner weighting scales so you can just go for even height to the guards or something like that

This maybe a stupid question but when adjusting ride hight with coilovers do you have LHS the same as RHS? I had the two fronts the same and the two backs the same but it seemed to sit higher on the left hand side, I am in the proses of taking them back out to check whether i stuffed the measurements up.

I measured before taking it apart and it was 9mm high on LHF and 5mm at LHR, I will find out tomorrow night if I have stuffed up,

The reason I ask is cars are normally higher on one side to allow for the drop off on the roads but that would be determined from the coilovers???

If you have installed coilovers have you set them all the same????

cheers

what do you mean buy right hand side, is that the drivers side. if so take into account that the fuel tank is bias to the drivers side and will make it sit lower than the passenger side at the rear. i set mine up so they where the same then adjusted them once installed to get a nice even level, then did a wheel alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
×
×
  • Create New...