Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so was stuck it traffic tonight and getting annoyed... finally got some open road and give it a bootfull in 1st gear...

all of sudden I hear a small bang and see black smoke in the rear view mirror...

then there is no boost... the car spools from negative to zero... and nothing from there...

it drives fine if u dont hit boost... idles fine... no smoke or anything...

and im pretty sure the exhaust note has changed... almost like there is something stuck in the cat (or it could just be my imagination)....

so one of the turbos has let go yeh?

i'm almost certain its the turbos from reading what others have experienced...

checked for leaks in cooler piping... seems all fine...

car is pretty much standard... running cat back exhaust... and 15psi actuators (came with the car! should have taken them off :@)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322435-no-boost-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Yep, bye bye ceramic turbine wheel!

Hopefully the bores are not damaged from ceramic dust. I've seen first hand what can happen to the bores.

I've got some new 2860-9's to replace the stockers on mine. Not gonna take any chances!

Good luck!

so what do you guys think of the following idea:

I grab some 2860 - 5s and whack em in... was planning to get those all along... might as well upgrade now

now the car is completely standard... doesnt even have a full turbo back exhaust yet... so I'm not sure how the Garretts will work on the standard car...

will probably have to run like 5psi until I get all the supporting mods (PFC, exhaust, injectors, tune etc etc)...

any thoughts on how much boost should be run in this sort of situation...

what he means by the dust is the tiny particles from ur ceramic exhaust wheel(s) when it pretty much explodes.. get reverted back into the engine if u come off throttle and do damage, if the car is fine atm, dont be worried..... just yet ;)

sounds like the exact same thing that happened to me,

put foot down

boosted up

BANG!!

black smoke out the rear (lots of it!!)

drove like a n/a car not building any boost.

replace the turbos and hope that there was no damage to engine, i was unlucky enough to replace the turbos after they blew then the front conrod bearing went so i had to get a full rebuild a week after the new turbos were installed.

good luck mate,

i went the 2860-5's, they're a bit laggy, but now with the boost up to 19psi it really does pull hard all the way to 320rwkw.

Drop the front of the cat and see if its looks like this; that's bits of ceramic turbine.

med_gallery_15274_3064_13488.jpg

What's your power goal? -7s or -9s are probably a better choice than -5s unless you're going to rebuild the motor and go for something like 400kws...

Too bad theres no smoke. Mine sort of have the same thing happened only that the bang was THAT loud and was blowing black smoke. Found out that the intercooler pipe (dont know if its the term for it but thats the black bit connected to the "twin turbo" pipe) was loose and came off. Tighten it and no issues after that.

how about you check all of your intercooler hoses first mate, particularly the bottom driver side one and the top passenger side one (inside the front wheel arch)

if your car is stock standard I doubt it is a turbo

Too bad theres no smoke. Mine sort of have the same thing happened only that the bang was THAT loud and was blowing black smoke. Found out that the intercooler pipe (dont know if its the term for it but thats the black bit connected to the "twin turbo" pipe) was loose and came off. Tighten it and no issues after that.

Check these first intercooler piping if all good, take the cat out. Do you still have oil pressure? (if so, re-check the hoses).

It happened to me a month ago (was expensive trip home by tow truck!) the culprit was the clamp that hold hose was broken, passenger side near the chassis rail - common problem.

My goal is 320awkw...

from reading the RB26 dyno thread... it seems like some ppl were falling short of that power with the -7s... will do some further research before buying tho

I will have another look at the piping tomorrow... had a look last night... was dark so may have missed something...

but from what I have read it seems like if a pipe has come loose... you still get some smoke when driving afterwards...

I'd rather preprare myself for the worse and either be relieved when I hear it was just a pipe or not be surprised when I eventually do get confirmation that it was the turbo...

just hope these bores are still ok... car seems to drive fine (just without boost) if thats any indication...

BLARDI 15psi ACTUATORS!! was planning on taking them off this weekend too :(

I'd be going with -5's for 320-330 on stock internals... You'll make the power easier- thus keeping your internals together longer.

OR Have a look at Trust T517Z 8cm's... I prefer them to Garetts.... Especially now that Garett/Honeywell have started cheaping out on they're production quality and standards...

Port match the stock exh manifolds and fitt quality dump pipes while your at it.

J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...