Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive done a 14.9 1/4, so maybe my 0-100 is around 7. This was done without a spare tyre and front bar and with only a 4000rpm launch. Might do better with a higher rpm launch and better tyres. NA 34s are not built for speed but they are quick enough for me. I only ever managed a 14.4 in my r33 s2 Gts-t, mind u it was pretty stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32249-r34-na-power/#findComment-654176
Share on other sites

well, having owned both NA cars and an R33 turbo, there's defnitely positives and negatives of NA and forced induction. personally, I'm no speed demon, and almost never drive my R33 in anger, and the NA R34's still look the trick, so I'd prolly go for one of those when the R33 gives up the ghost...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32249-r34-na-power/#findComment-654726
Share on other sites

At the moment full exhaust 2.5, pod filter, extractors, safc II. Pretty much extent of things u can do to an N/A. Looking for the 3lt conversion soon, but dont know if ill go ahead with it(its expensive). A friend of mine already had it done and he is happy but cost him more than originally planned (mind u he is in NZ so prob more in Aust). SAFC has so far been the best mod, exhaust and pod were done b4 i got the car. The car ran this time without front bar, rear seat or passenger seat (taken out for a stereo install that i didnt proceed with so also no stereo or speakers at the time), no spare tyre, no jack or tools. So yeah, I honestly dont think that our cars are supposed to be fast but they can be made to be reasonably quick.

HPI did their best time of 7.3 for 0-100 but to be honest with u I dont remember my 0-100 time. So sorry maybe u are right, I just estimated it to be around 7, maybe someone can tell me what a 0-100 time for a 14.9 1/4 mile could be. You have a four door right, just wondering have u weighed your car ? Id like to know just to compare it to mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32249-r34-na-power/#findComment-655029
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...