Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Dont quite know where to put this, so ill drop it here and see what happens. I am looking at buying a R34 GT and just found out it was a 2.0L, when i thought it was a 2.5. It's non turbo, is it worth buying? Or will i be stuck with the slowet skyline known to man. Would it cost heaps to get a 2.5 converted? or with some mods will this engine be okay.

Any feedback and advice is much appreciated!

(BTW it would be my first skyline, and im a P-Plater)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Dont quite know where to put this, so ill drop it here and see what happens. I am looking at buying a R34 GT and just found out it was a 2.0L, when i thought it was a 2.5. It's non turbo, is it worth buying? Or will i be stuck with the slowet skyline known to man. Would it cost heaps to get a 2.5 converted? or with some mods will this engine be okay.

Any feedback and advice is much appreciated!

(BTW it would be my first skyline, and im a P-Plater)

If your heart is set on a R34 definetly keep looking for the RB25 model, the hassle and cost involved in doing a conversion it wouldnt be worth it. Its not too much more for the RB25DE model sometimes you end up with it being the same price or cheaper than the RB20 model. If its just the N/A skyline your after and you want to go a bit quicker I reccomend the R32 with the RB25DE it would be a fair bit quicker than the R34 with it being nearly 200kg lighter and probably better resale value when you get off your P's too. It seems the R32 RB25DE Skylines have bottomed out in price especially with the new P Plate laws.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5259877
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice mate, i found a 1998 2.5GT-X, it is only 1k more also. Is there much power difference between the two? and whats the difference bewteen the GT and the GT-X?

The Power difference is the GT is the RB20 which has 114kw and the GT-X is the RB25 that has 147kw. So an extra 33kw for 1k completely legit on P-Plates sounds like a pretty sweet deal to me and better resale value to someone like yourself in the future is after the R34 NA but with that little bit more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5260164
Share on other sites

GTs come in both rb20 and rb25, the GTX and GTV are high option spec skylines. I think even though the GTX might be N/A it will still have the 4 piston calipers and twin rear, twin airbags, sunroof etc. Basically everything thats in the turbo model will be in the GTX bar the turbo.

Definitely go with the RB25, you'll hate yourself for getting the rb20.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5260339
Share on other sites

Correct. Would be curious to know how it got here...

i am curious to know why? it surely can't be due to a power to weight ratio as some others have implied as there would be cars with worse power to weight ratios than the 2.0L r34. the nissan cube for example. it's able to be imported and it has a much lower power to weight ratio than the r34 would. hell the r34 would still have a better power to weight ratio than a lot of ADM cars, such as an early 2000's lancer with the 1.5L engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5267378
Share on other sites

oh i'm not saying that the rb20 r34 isn't a piece of shit, i'm just curious as to how some cars are able to get in yet others aren't. i was looking through a list of the cars allowed in and there are a hell of a lot that are on the list with terrible power to weight ratios. don't suppose you could say what the minimum power to weight ratio is that cuts off the rb20 r34?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5268598
Share on other sites

This isn't the first 2.0L r34 that has come into the country, there was a post on here a couple of years ago by a guy who only realised he bought a rb20 R34 after he had it for a while.

Edit: Can't find the car mentioned above but there are others around the place

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=gtv+gtx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322498-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-5268796
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
×
×
  • Create New...