HKS GT SS vs 2530's vs Trust T517Z's

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

you can do the same thing with a MAP sensor, I tune both work with both.

If it's purely a street car and you're on a budget get Nistune... whatever you do, do not get a PowerFC. If money isn't an issue, get a Haltech, leave your AFM there just use the internal MAP sensor.

Nistune will support R35/HPX AFM, will support flex setups, has launch control supports boost control etc... it's wonderful bit of kit.

[mr skidz]

Is there a lot of disadvantages tuning with airflow meter?  Like slow response or inaccurate measurement?  My main goal really is to get good and quick responsive low end, and top end output is just secondary.

I thought Haltech could work on airflow meter without additional vacuum line, at least that's what it reads like on their website.  I guess that leaves me only Nistune.

I have been told at another forum to keep under 6k rpm at all times if I have stock short nose crank, so the thought of a dyno tune really terrified me!

I'd be more concerned about limiter bashing then being over 6000 RPM if the concern is the oil pump Drive gears getting smashed.

there are just some added benefits of having a map speed density tune but that really depends on whether you're venting charge air to atmosphere (bov) if you are then go for a map based tune and if it's a gtr using a 4 dimensional table is best and will run cleaner between gear changes fuel economy is better and plugs won't look shitty.

[TXSquirrel]

I have got quotes from two OZ vendors on a complete installation kit for Garrett -9's.  Both prices are similar, but one offers all Nissan fasteners and gaskets for $120 AUD more, which I think is a fair price to pay for genuine OEM parts.  But the question is, do I really need those genuine OEM parts?  Also, neither kit comes with exhaust manifold studs and nuts, but strangely does come with exhaust manifold gaskets.  So the removal of exhaust manifolds are expected, but the factory studs and nuts are also expected to be re-used?  How often do they break?

I have got quotes from my local shops, and I don't know if it's because of the lack of experience or this job really is that complicated.  To swap both turbos (with engine in) and have both exhaust manifolds ported, they quote 2 full days or 15-17 hours.  Two shops recommend removing engine for this job, which they say will have cost savings for me because clutch can be replaced at the same time.  And for engine removal plus clutch work the estimated hours are 19-22 hours.  Are those estimates reasonable?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Motor out easier, can be done with engine in but if you're doing the clutch and other shit as well might as well pull the motor out and also do the front diff, baffled sump and better oil pump that's not a N1 pump.

[r32-25t]

A good shop that knows what they are doing can do turbos with the engine in the car in 8hrs and a clutch in 2hrs

dont bother changing the oil pump if you're not changing the crank and as good as the front diff makes the car it's not worth the expense unless you plan of taking it to the track a lot

[TXSquirrel]

9 hours ago, r32-25t said:

A good shop that knows what they are doing can do turbos with the engine in the car in 8hrs and a clutch in 2hrs

dont bother changing the oil pump if you're not changing the crank and as good as the front diff makes the car it's not worth the expense unless you plan of taking it to the track a lot

Yeah I feel a 2-day quote is a bit excessive, probably due to the lack of experience here.  In addition, I am not sure what's the typical labor rate in Australia, but the hourly rate in my area is pretty absurd at $115 USD an hour.

I rarely track my car.  Although there are a few nice tracks around town, I only go when I cave in to peer pressure lol.