Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you can do the same thing with a MAP sensor, I tune both work with both.

If it's purely a street car and you're on a budget get Nistune... whatever you do, do not get a PowerFC. If money isn't an issue, get a Haltech, leave your AFM there just use the internal MAP sensor.

Nistune will support R35/HPX AFM, will support flex setups, has launch control supports boost control etc... it's wonderful bit of kit.

Is there a lot of disadvantages tuning with airflow meter?  Like slow response or inaccurate measurement?  My main goal really is to get good and quick responsive low end, and top end output is just secondary.

I thought Haltech could work on airflow meter without additional vacuum line, at least that's what it reads like on their website.  I guess that leaves me only Nistune.

I have been told at another forum to keep under 6k rpm at all times if I have stock short nose crank, so the thought of a dyno tune really terrified me!

I'd be more concerned about limiter bashing then being over 6000 RPM if the concern is the oil pump Drive gears getting smashed.

there are just some added benefits of having a map speed density tune but that really depends on whether you're venting charge air to atmosphere (bov) if you are then go for a map based tune and if it's a gtr using a 4 dimensional table is best and will run cleaner between gear changes fuel economy is better and plugs won't look shitty.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have got quotes from two OZ vendors on a complete installation kit for Garrett -9's.  Both prices are similar, but one offers all Nissan fasteners and gaskets for $120 AUD more, which I think is a fair price to pay for genuine OEM parts.  But the question is, do I really need those genuine OEM parts?  Also, neither kit comes with exhaust manifold studs and nuts, but strangely does come with exhaust manifold gaskets.  So the removal of exhaust manifolds are expected, but the factory studs and nuts are also expected to be re-used?  How often do they break?

I have got quotes from my local shops, and I don't know if it's because of the lack of experience or this job really is that complicated.  To swap both turbos (with engine in) and have both exhaust manifolds ported, they quote 2 full days or 15-17 hours.  Two shops recommend removing engine for this job, which they say will have cost savings for me because clutch can be replaced at the same time.  And for engine removal plus clutch work the estimated hours are 19-22 hours.  Are those estimates reasonable?

Motor out easier, can be done with engine in but if you're doing the clutch and other shit as well might as well pull the motor out and also do the front diff, baffled sump and better oil pump that's not a N1 pump.

A good shop that knows what they are doing can do turbos with the engine in the car in 8hrs and a clutch in 2hrs

dont bother changing the oil pump if you're not changing the crank and as good as the front diff makes the car it's not worth the expense unless you plan of taking it to the track a lot

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, r32-25t said:

A good shop that knows what they are doing can do turbos with the engine in the car in 8hrs and a clutch in 2hrs

dont bother changing the oil pump if you're not changing the crank and as good as the front diff makes the car it's not worth the expense unless you plan of taking it to the track a lot

Yeah I feel a 2-day quote is a bit excessive, probably due to the lack of experience here.  In addition, I am not sure what's the typical labor rate in Australia, but the hourly rate in my area is pretty absurd at $115 USD an hour.

I rarely track my car.  Although there are a few nice tracks around town, I only go when I cave in to peer pressure lol.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How fast are you doing the downshift? 4th gear was revised multiple times until 1998 to fix this issue. Synchro clips can fall out, synchros can wear. Most likely you're looking at a new transmission unfortunately. If you need to limp it until then double clutch downshifts into 4th.
    • Sorry I was being harsh there, but am I wrong? You can buy a M340i easily, and there's loads available second hand. A lot more workshops modifying them as well. How about getting parts for them? Don't get me wrong, I'd love a 400R, even a 4cyl (I looked at a few V36s before buying my shitbox BMW). Sadly Infiniti died in Aus and we're stuck with importing them as niche vehicles. Supply and demand
    • Probably straight swap for an R32 GT-R? lol
    • Yes I think we changed out the transmission fluid as I had a leak last year so we changed out the seals also. Need to check.    I should have said just change from 5th to 4th gear … down shift. There’s a grind.    I have a new clutch X clutch … but as I said all the changes in other gears are fine. 
    • Change the transmission fluid. I would try Motorcraft XT-M5-QS if you have it in your area for a reasonable price. Also, double check your clutch is fully disengaging. If you are not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor fully for every shift now is the time to start. Make sure the clutch is fully bled. The damper line requires two distinct bleed points to be purged of air or it will not disengage the clutch properly. If either hydraulic cylinders input or output are losing hydraulic pressure in their seals/leaking you can have problems like this. If you've ruled out everything else then the most likely explanation is the synchros are worn and you need to double clutch the shift or rebuild/replace the transmission. The transfer case is discontinued FYI so you may want to rebuild it while you're in there too. If the chain stretches past spec it can do a ton of damage.
×
×
  • Create New...