Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You have to consider that the skylines we have are typically 10 years old, and local mechanics are often unfamiliar with HICAS. It's very easy to mess up your alignment or steering rack and cause HICAS to cause steering issues. Additionally, after 10 years, the sensors can mess up and require expensive replacement. Many people fit aftermarket steering wheels, and these require HICAS compatible boss kits.

On a track car, and at the extremes of handling HICAS can upset the balance of the car as the HICAS will counteract the steering imputs you're trying to give it in it's attempt to straighten up the car.

For regular every day driving, and highway driving I personally find HICAS useful, you can feel it at work changing lanes, going around corners at speed, etc - but I've also experienced how unpredictable it can make the car feel at the limits.

One consideration for those removing their HICAS is to ensure that they get it engineered (though most don't bother); Removing HICAS is a defectable item if an inspector catches you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5261094
Share on other sites

as above hicas system is over 10 years old and can be faulty and turn on/act at times it shouldn't, for example driving in a straight line then you feel the rear end is making you sway right or left, it can actilly be very dangerous, mate in his 180 has had this happen to him and he got a lock bar straight away, lock bar replaces the rack and blocked the hicas fluid lines, this is fine and works really good,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5262351
Share on other sites

Plenty of threads about HICAS, just search and start reading.

In a modified car that gets driven hard it causes a bit of unpredictability that most people don't like. Not to mention in a R32 you get rid of a heap of weight.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5262379
Share on other sites

I put in a lock bar last week and I can't notice much difference through the course of daily driving - as you won't unless the system is faulty. Only when driving spirited through corners will you see much "improvement" from locking it. I say "improvement" because if you don't notice HICAS doing its job then you aren't really going to notice a difference without it...

It's a shame our HICAS isn't like the four wheel steering that the Preludes from late 80's and early 90's got - it was only active at low speeds and was AWESOME for parking / low speed manouvres. Made you feel like you were in a boat because the car would almost rotate on the spot lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5263623
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure I hate it.

I'm sure I can feel the car rear wheel steering all over the place when I get it some herbs.

I won't know for sure that it's the HICAS until I remove it, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5264657
Share on other sites

It's a shame our HICAS isn't like the four wheel steering that the Preludes from late 80's and early 90's got - it was only active at low speeds and was AWESOME for parking / low speed manouvres. Made you feel like you were in a boat because the car would almost rotate on the spot lol.

Surely there should be a way you can trick the ECU to make it do this.. Have you ever tried the HICAS diagnostics? Your rear wheels move when you're turning your wheel at a stand still, it feels so weird.

For regular every day driving, and highway driving I personally find HICAS useful, you can feel it at work changing lanes, going around corners at speed, etc - but I've also experienced how unpredictable it can make the car feel at the limits.

I've never felt it do anything in my R33 in those situations, the light doesn't come up either. I thought it only engages over 80km/h and under extreme turning essentially inducing oversteer then attempting to straighten it up just afterwards so you can make sharper turns.

People always tend to complain about it, but I think it sounds quite cool and would be useful after getting used to it - even though I've never experienced it before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5265679
Share on other sites

I've never felt it do anything in my R33 in those situations, the light doesn't come up either. I thought it only engages over 80km/h and under extreme turning essentially inducing oversteer then attempting to straighten it up just afterwards so you can make sharper turns.

In my experience, it starts kicking in about 50-60kph, and turns off about 110kph. This diagram illustrates how it works:

how_hicas_works.gif

I learned the speeds that it kicks in from when my HICAS developed a fault - the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned. In this situation as it believed the steering wheel was at an angle when the car was straight, the steering wheel would sorta 'roll over' trying to correct the rear wheels turning, and the car would start to crab; This only happened at speeds above 60kph and then got steadily worse up until 110kph when the steering wheel would snap-straight as HICAS turned off, causing the entire rear end to fishtail (a scary experience).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5266396
Share on other sites

Shit, with stories like that it sounds like a faulty system could actually be quite dangerous, especially in the wet^

That's what concerns me about all the modern systems being put in cars...these systems put in place to take human error out of the equation yet ruling out that the components themselves were designed by humans and therefore prone to fault themselves :)

From that diagram it seems to me HICAS will induce some oversteer during mid speed turns, then quickly understeer to get you straightened up again. During high speed it appears to just understeer you throughout most of the turn so you don't end up in snap overtseer. I can see where it would be useful for inexperienced drivers but this will contradict driver inputs when you're trying to throw the thing around a race track - makes things very unpredictable unless you know exactly what it's going to do at a certain speed.

aequel, it would be interesting if you could trick the ECU into activating HICAS for low speed manouvres. I think a problem at hand is that the Honda system was designed to induce alot of oversteer to combat the natural understeer of a FWD, whilst HICAS is there to save newbies from the oversteer of a powerful RWD vehicle. If you ever get a chance to, drive a 4 wheel steer Prelude and you will see how good that system actually is. Feels like you're drifting around some roundabouts - I never get sick of it :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5266480
Share on other sites

i actually liked both my skylines with the hicas in... the r33 is definatly the better setup, being an electronic controlled rack.

the r32 definatly weighs a tonne... the rack weighs 6kg... the front valve weighs about the same and so does the rear valve and the extra lines, fluid, and rear pump section, hicas ecu and wiring.. easily 25kgs all up.

the rear end definatly feels better without it though, and you can set the toe to where you want it and know it wont move around... especially when you consider things like bump steer at the back when our cars are lowered... its talked about at the front but not much at the back..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5266646
Share on other sites

Shit, with stories like that it sounds like a faulty system could actually be quite dangerous, especially in the wet^

That's what concerns me about all the modern systems being put in cars...these systems put in place to take human error out of the equation yet ruling out that the components themselves were designed by humans and therefore prone to fault themselves :bunny:

it would be useful for inexperienced driversFrom that diagram it seems to me HICAS will induce some oversteer during mid speed turns, then quickly understeer to get you straightened up again. During high speed it appears to just understeer you throughout most of the turn so you don't end up in snap overtseer. I can see where it would be useful for inexperienced drivers but this will contradict driver inputs when you're trying to throw the thing around a race track - makes things very unpredictable unless you know exactly what it's going to do at a certain speed.

aequel, it would be interesting if you could trick the ECU into activating HICAS for low speed manouvres. I think a problem at hand is that the Honda system was designed to induce alot of oversteer to combat the natural understeer of a FWD, whilst HICAS is there to save newbies from the oversteer of a powerful RWD vehicle. If you ever get a chance to, drive a 4 wheel steer Prelude and you will see how good that system actually is. Feels like you're drifting around some roundabouts - I never get sick of it :)

Like me :)

So it has 3 settings, Off, Mid Speed, High Speed.

I think it would be cool to have a switch that over rides the speed detection essentially allowing you to "dial in" a speed and consequently manually telling hicas what to do. So you don't need a lock bar to disable HICAS.

Unless of course it changes in behaviour from 50km/h to 51km/h.

Anyone know how the HICAS speed detection works on an R33 gtst?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5267617
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Like me :P

So it has 3 settings, Off, Mid Speed, High Speed.

I think it would be cool to have a switch that over rides the speed detection essentially allowing you to "dial in" a speed and consequently manually telling hicas what to do. So you don't need a lock bar to disable HICAS.

Unless of course it changes in behaviour from 50km/h to 51km/h.

Anyone know how the HICAS speed detection works on an R33 gtst?

No, No and No

It doesn't have 3 settings or speeds.

It doesn't help you park - Honda's are for geriatrics that's why they get park assist (if you can't park your Skyline i suggest u "upgrade" to a Honda).

It does not turn the rear wheels when you r at a standstill anyone who says they can see that happening is on drugs!

HICAS is high speed (roughly 70kph+ depending on conditions) steering assistance that is advantageous under most road conditions i.e. with average drivers driving at average speeds.

Once you start driving the car at 90%+ (i.e. on the track) HICAS is counter productive and will make the car feel like it has a mind of it's own and cost you lap time.

This is not opinion but a fact - show me one serious track going Skyline that uses HICAS and I'll show you someone who doesn't know how a car should handle.

So to summarise:

HICAS on road = good

HICAS on track = bad

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5285682
Share on other sites

It does not turn the rear wheels when you r at a standstill anyone who says they can see that happening is on drugs!

If you are referring to the guy who mentioned that in this thread, he actually said whilst in diagnostics mode, which is correct.

When you enter diag mode, the HICAS computer moves the rack around, testing its sensors, etc & feels trippy as!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5286318
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

my hicas has been bugging me lately, hence went and bought a lock bar today.

for instance i would briskly exit say a 90 degree corner more sharply (even a word?) than usual, and could feel the rear wheels wobbling around (no wheel spin or oversteering happening). whilst the hicas is trying to understand what the hell has this bloke just done, attempting to correct my driving by changing the direction of my rear wheels.

hello car im the driver can you plz stop farting around with my rear wheels kthx.

im especially glad i bought a lock bar after reading the above post about hicas chucking a fit and fishtailing :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5328376
Share on other sites

LANDSCRIBBLE - at what sort of speeds are we talking here? HICAS shouldn't kick in until 60+ (in my experience from having mis-aligned HICAS steering angle sensors).

I have had my rear wheels 'wobble around' before in situations like you describe when my HICAS steering rack had excessive movement in it - I replaced the rack and it's fine now. Perhaps get your tyre/suspension guy to check out your rear steering rack to see if it has excessive movement in it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322592-removing-hicas/#findComment-5328391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
    • Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.
    • I'm not sure where you are, but United Terrey Hills has E85. 
×
×
  • Create New...