Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

personally get something cheap and less powerfull...accidents will always happen in the early states or driving and also getting used to driving in general and different conditions. Give it a couple of years in lets say a bluebird and then you would also have some more money saved up by that time. Maybe you could get a r34gtt or a basic r33gtst and have money for mods etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647440
Share on other sites

thats alot of power for someone with hardly any experiance. Plus i dont think you'd be able to afford a skyline ( tires are not cheap for those rim sizes, insurance, oil, petrol ).

Im getting an r31 gts-x or mabye even one of the 3ltr skylines.

the r33 rb25de puts out around 140KW, same as an r31 GTS2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647446
Share on other sites

Get an older R31 and build up your rating a bit. They're a good car (if in good condition) and have enough power for just getting used to learning to drive, etc. You might put a small few dents and things in the first year anyhow.

After that, you can always just sell it and get the R33 if thats what you still really want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647453
Share on other sites

I'm going to be importing an R32 GTS-t soon, as I get my L's in July. My dad too pulls in the 'dosh', but at least I'm paying for insurance. 3rd party too, so I'm definitely going to be extra cautious. I'll keep the speed for the track ;)

One of the advantages of having a Skyline for a first car is that they are known for handling well, but if you start to speed, there is a high chance that you're going to crash with the level of experience you have.

Just try and keep your head beneath the clouds, and don't think that you're invincible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647533
Share on other sites

my opinion, dont get a real "flashy" (eg skyline) car for your first,, i had my first car written off (i wasnt at fault) and my second car was pretty close to written off, then i got my Skyline, this was after 18 or so months of having my P's, cos i was still learning to drive, (still am really)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647590
Share on other sites

I had my first car written off too (shockingly within 21 days of having it)!

but these days the s13/s14 are within quite an affordable price range. Isnt the '94 or so 180SX for around the 10-12k mark? I would think thats a cheaper option plus you get used to the characteristics of a turbo car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647688
Share on other sites

I wrote my first car off within 2 weeks of having it :( :( So I was really glad it was just an old sh1tbox of a mini! ;) and not a Skyline!

Another young driver on here has just written off his GTR, which I understand is the second car he's written off...

Of course everyone wants a nice powerful motor for their first car, but be careful...

I beleive that statistics show you're way more likely to write off your first car than any other...:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-647768
Share on other sites

yeah good point but i rather get a blue bird then a r31

I've owned 2 Bluebirds, and they both went to the great rust heap in the sky.

Bluebirds are hard to find in reasonable condition.

When you've had a look at 20 or 30 of them, you'll start to realise that it's very hard to find one without rust.

The R31 is newer, more comfortable, has efi, and is easy to modify when you decide that you want more power. :(

....and jusitnfox and predator.... i'm older!! :Oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32265-my-first-car/#findComment-648028
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
×
×
  • Create New...