Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Drinks water......what a nice long read. Sorry if bumping is a bad thing, but I don't see a point in making a new thread as this one is pretty damn good.

Ok....now that I am a GTR owner, I see why this choosing the correct turbo is such a mind f***. I am literally going nuts. Nismoid has made my brain spin a fair amount also. He makes both options sound pretty good hahaha.

1990 early model R32 GTR. 80,000 km

I plan on keeping the 2.6 liter engine unopened (for now). I prefer to push what I have then rebuild when the time comes. Being that I live in the USA, the highway speed average here is about 70 mph (112 km/h). Now with that being said, would you recommend the -9, -5, or what a lot of japan shops have pushing me towards is the HKS 2530 KAI. They seem to swear by them being the best turbo. The 2530 kai has thrown a bone in the choice for me. They are supposed to spool a little bit faster than older model, yet also produce more hp. I can't find much info at all on these turbo's. But I just thought I would bring it up here.

At first I was dead set on the -9. But if the KAI can spool yet even quicker than -5 and produce more top end, then why not just go with them? Keep in mind that this is a weekend/nice weather/fun car only. It may see some track days, some 1/4 mile, some highway pulls, and some spirited driving. It's just an all round street car that can be fun where ever I want, when I want and give my buddies a good shock :). The consensus of this thread points towards the -5 for that kind of scenario. But, since I plan on keeping the motor OEM for now, I don't want to rev the living dog piss out of it. Which I think the -5's would require that no? I don't want to have to stress the OEM valve train so to speak with a super high power band (7k on stock valve train good?). I guess I could always short shift if I had to(losing power band), or maybe I'm just over thinking it? Are the 2530 kai or -5 a plausible choice? They leave me room to grow if I get that boost bug bite after a rebuild also. I know the KAI's are a bit more expensive than either of the -5, -9 choice. But is it a good "in between" to kind of squash the whole -9 or -5 debate?

Here is what I have currently pieced together for supporting mods so far.

Raw Brokerage fuel kit with ID 1000cc injectors, fuel lab FPR, proper fittings/braided hoses etc.

http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-injector-dynamics-pro-fuel-rail-combo-rb26/

Tomei Adjustable cam gears

Power FC L-jetro (will probably go to haltech platinum pro when I rebuild the motor), I already have the PFC, might as well use it.

Currently having a price quote for Midori Seibi dump pipes, midori titanium 90MM front pipes, 90mm straight pipe, and the midori high power NR titanium 90mm exhaust.

There are a few more things I know I need (boost controller, nismo AFM's, nismo fuel pump, nismo twin disc coppermix). Just wondering if the slightly "laggier" -5/2530 can be made a little less laggy with proper choice of supporting mods? I plan on keeping the intake system stock. Am trying to keep the engine bay in a stock like appearance.

Thanks for any advice. Very nice forum you guys have here.

I've recently gone from 34R stockers (-7 size for your ref) to -5s + poncam B's and don't consider it laggy at all, but I explicitly requested that when setting up the cams.

Has great mid + top end, bottom end is much the same as the 34 turbos, e85 makes a big difference in the low/mid end torque.

It's a bog standard 160K old motor with the only internal change being the cams.

yea for right now, with a unopened engine, I think I would be wanting 450 max. Seems like a safe number. After a rebuild for sure would probably want to bump it up into 500-550 hp range. I guess I could always just go -9 and when the time comes, get some new snails. It's just selling off extra r32 parts probably isn't as easy in the USA as it is over in australia lol. But ya never know. I can't tell how the market will be since these cars haven't been legal for importation that long.

I've recently gone from 34R stockers (-7 size for your ref) to -5s + poncam B's and don't consider it laggy at all, but I explicitly requested that when setting up the cams.

Has great mid + top end, bottom end is much the same as the 34 turbos, e85 makes a big difference in the low/mid end torque.

It's a bog standard 160K old motor with the only internal change being the cams.

That is good to hear. But e85 is hard to find around me. I think the closest gas station with e85 is about a 30 minute drive from my residence.

Maybe just have a look through the RB26 dyno thread and have a look when all the turbo's make power and make your mind up from there.

I wouldn't say -5s are extremely laggy for the street but if you don't want to wait for that extra 500-1000rpm or so to spin up the -9s are the way to go.

Maybe just have a look through the RB26 dyno thread and have a look when all the turbo's make power and make your mind up from there.

I wouldn't say -5s are extremely laggy for the street but if you don't want to wait for that extra 500-1000rpm or so to spin up the -9s are the way to go.

Yea I've been looking around. That thread is huge also haha. I guess I'm just more worried about what others have been talking about that the dyno doesn't show. Feel while actually driving. I'll probably just go the dash -9's. Screw it, sometimes you have just bite the bullet and see where it gets you. If you are not satisfied then spend more money and go up a size. It's just money right lol. I more so made my initial post to bring up the 2530 kai since I cant really seem to find out to much about them and they seem to be right in the middle of this -9 or -5 option. I'm sure any choice will put a smile on my face realistically.

I don't think the HKS gear is too popular in Aus as it's old tech but still expensive. There are better, cheaper options out there these days. Maybe try something custom from Hypergear if you're willing to go that way.

Best thing to do is go for a drive in a responsive car and a laggier car. Doesnt matter what car. And work out what you prefer and then you have your answer. Go to a jdm meet or something and I am sure someone would be happy to take you for a drive. This is the best way to choose you prefered setup.

Think I'll just do the -9. Seems like the only complaint with them is "linear power is boring". Oh darn lol. Being that I am away from home for nearly 10 months out the year, I'm sure anytime in that car will be impressive to me rather than my daily turbo diesel truck. When I do rebuild, I plan on going up in displacement. So I will just get new turbos then. Hopefully not for a couple of years. Just depends on stock engine life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...