Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just ordered me some -9s

hope i'm disappointed

will post results when everything is in....

Any news yet? I'm also looking at -7 or -5's. Will be running JJR manifolds, xforce dumps, catco 3" cat, 4" catback, 100mm intake piping, 100mm intercooler, poncam a's, z32, sard 700's etc.. Stock bottom end for now but definately getting forged setup in the next 6 months.

Response is nice... But lag can be as well. Eg: I really love the T51R, the lag, the sound, the output. Different kit all together I know, but lag+severe power is a tick in my box. Given them details, what should I get?

Any news yet? I'm also looking at -7 or -5's. Will be running JJR manifolds, xforce dumps, catco 3" cat, 4" catback, 100mm intake piping, 100mm intercooler, poncam a's, z32, sard 700's etc.. Stock bottom end for now but definately getting forged setup in the next 6 months.

Response is nice... But lag can be as well. Eg: I really love the T51R, the lag, the sound, the output. Different kit all together I know, but lag+severe power is a tick in my box. Given them details, what should I get?

With those details I would say -5s! You have all the supporting mods, you will be building a forged engine and you dont mind a bit of lag.

ok thought I might add my results... only just picked the car up yesterday

2860 - 9s from GCG

Stock motor... only mods are the turbos, cat back exhaust and PFC

270rwkw @ 15 psi... not a bad result I thought

standard AFMs were maxing out + injectors are almost at their limits

tuner said the shitty complaince cat is also holding back 15-20kw

now the goal is to get all the supporting mods, wind up the boost and go for 350rwkw

Im my opinion you would want to be careful pushing an unopened RB26 further than 300, if you have a great tune and your tuner is experienced it should be fine but anything over that mark wont last too long.

Keep it at 300 its a nice streetable number as 350kw you wont be using too often.

Its definitely laggier compared to standard turbos... will need some cam gears to help with lag

its punchy... top end is much harder than standard turbos

pretty sure actuators are aftermarket.... not exactly sure which ones tho... tuner said he did have to play around with the 'stock boost controller' to have an even 15psi line

umm full boost comes on around 4k i think... i havent really driven it much yet so not sure... will put up the dyno print out when i get home

im almost in the same boat as u man except i got -7's on my r33 gtr, got it tuned yesterday, managed to get 275kw at 1.2bar but it bleeds off to 1 bar by redline arghhh, injectors are almost hitting 100% aswell :)

im trying to find out the most cheapest way to solve the boost issue though, im running a profec b spec 2

6x injectors = about 900

1x fuel pressure reg = about 180

Because u only want a tiny bit more than the stock injectors will do. An increase in fuel pressure will get that easily.

I personally think cam gears are WAY overrated in the skyline community. U already have stock cams which are tiny, why further reduce top-end power from the already tiny cams? I understand tweaking cam timing on huge cams but i've never seen any evidence to show a gain in changing cam timing on stock cams. Fuel pressure reg and a set of Tomei Poncam type B cams cost about the same as injectors and camgears. I know which one would make bucketloads more all through the revs.

cam gears n cams are 2 different things, personally cam gears are great mod for the money, with my turbos I'm setting it for max response n powerband to start as early as possible

beerbaron has posted dyno of before n after cam gear mods with great gains, my car has similar results

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...