Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About $682 and change if you pick them up from his Melbourne warehouse.

I got jumped all over when I suggested getting parts from Japan as opposed to buying them new from Cazz for the DR30 ................ but,

What price do you put on CANNOT BE FOUND IN Australia, near IMPOSSIBLE to get?

I think the cost is reasonable for what they are, if they are what you want.

Remember it is the only source for our classic cars.

I paid over AU$120.00 for a Paul Newman badge and thought it was a bargain, because I couldn't find one anywhere.

Cheers, D

post-2962-1275264583_thumb.jpg

i got the series 1 chromes. naturally they attract a much higher cost than the s2. mainly because there's a shitload more s2 lights for sale!

it took me like a year and a half to own s1 lights and i passed off about 10 opportunities to buy s2's in that time.

that pic is the sex btw lol.

I'd like to get the S1 chromes, i like them better.

But i got mine cause i wanted stove tops right then and there.

and it came with garnish.

do you reckon that this price is pretty steep?

email jesse streeter on [email protected] and find out how much he can source it for.

last time i got a quote it was fairly cheap

not a plug, just saying if you want it cheaper.

yea i got my centre garnish through jesse. very good communication!

I think I will look into that, just love those S1 lights.

How much you reckon i could get for my S2s?

I got them for $390 to my door, looking to get most of that back.

Wires modded to suit Aus spec C210

all 4 lights on low for headlights

then all 4 on high for brakes.

post-67860-1275304438_thumb.jpg

post-67860-1275304546_thumb.jpg

post-67860-1275304573_thumb.jpg

The ones on import monster are at about the same price I payed for mine in Japan(25,000 yen), though mine weren't perfect they where definitely better than those, and cost considerably less to ship.

I think you did well with 400 odd for the S2's Socrates. S1's in the same condition for will fetch good moneys. $400+ AUD in Japan not including additional shipping charges etc.

Nice looking garnish, hardest part to come by in good cond. Check the top mounting bolts on these as they are very brittle.

http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/136659379

Edited by D-limo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...