Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Year:1990

Body : 2 +2 Targa

Colour: Cherry Red Pearl

Engine: VG30DE

Transmission (MT/AT):AT

Interior : Leather seats, leather/tweed trim

Odometer:131xxx

Price: 9000 (neg)

Contact Details: 0434081559

Mods:

Apexi 3" pod filter

Stainless steel intake pipes, with blue silicon vac lines/couplers

Full aftermarket exhaust (TTZ extractors - Magnaflow cats - UAS center muff- Magnaflow 14807 muffs with 2.5" piping)

NGK Iridium spark plugs

Front and rear slotted brake discs

QFM HPX brake pads

Blue silicon radiator hoses

Aftermarket head unit,speakers,sub

B.BOSS Maddison 18" wheels with 235/40/18 on fronts, 245/40/18 on rears King Low Springs all round

Keyless entry

Rhino RAV3 car alarm/3 point immobiliser

TT front bar

This car has never missed a beat while in my possession (6500km), only ever used BP Ultimate 98 octane fuel in it. 100 000km service has been done. Bad points are cracked (purely cosmetic, it still functions 100%) LHS tail light/brake light fascia, worn drives seat, gutter rash on all 4 wheels, cracked wiper cowl (once again purely cosmetic - I'm getting one from Japan and will provide it to the buyer for free), and the fact that it's an autofrown.gif. The straps for the sub have somehow managed to snap in the 3 months I was away (December 09 - February 10) and I haven't been bothered to fix em.

All services (oil, spark plugs, coolant, brakes, tyres) performed in Mar 2010. Car has only done less than 2000km since then, tyres (lexani lx-21 fronts, tracmax rears) still have 90% + tread, oil was changed with fully synthetic Royal Purple 20W - 50. Transmission was allegedly replaced at 124000km by previous owner (no receipts for this). Car comes with OEM targa bags and fluffy 'Fairlady Z' floormats. Uses about 500km per tank on highway driving. Car has also had a brazillian .

All receipts for work done in my possession can be provided upon request. Datascan shows code 55 (all ok). Rego til Sep 2010

PICT0656.jpg

009-2.jpg

No that's not me doing donuts in an auto NA...rolleyes.gif

009-1.jpg

008-1.jpg

007-1.jpg

006-1.jpg

005.jpg

003-1.jpg

002-1.jpg

001.jpg

Edited by whoppersandwich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322907-90-300zx-targa-na-auto/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...