Vic - Fs Vic El2 Futura Opt 20 Sedan, Lowered, Lsd, Tint, Towbar - Daily Spec!
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The pics refuse to load for me, even on a decent connection, Chrome was just shitting the bed. Duncan to resize, open them in mspaint, hit CTRL + W enter 30% as the value, and then save as a new file and upload that. Especially if they're like a 3000x3000 pixel image! 😮 On the topic of Autos, in the Bathurst 6 hour, there was another auto, that's been there a few times. The Levitt Motorsports AMG C63. He's killed autos before too for various reasons. Also when the engine does things like thinking it's overheating, they'll often do weird things like turn off sport mode/manual mode and put it back to boring auto mode and turn power down etc. Collision systems can do weird shit, especially things like TCS if you get a steering angle sensor out of alignment etc. Rip the ECU out, put a carb on, save all your problems -
So you THINK it's overheating, and are only GUESSING it is, because you THINK the ECU is hitting a heat cut? Do you have any datalogs to prove this? Is the temperature gauge even moving? Other than emotions and assumptions, what is telling you it's overheating? What ECU do you even have?
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This is the entire issue. The stud should have a ringland on it, such that the stud metal, is also the same piece as attached to the ringland. Think of it this way, take an actual bolt, turn it upside down. The head of the bolt, is the ringland, and it is all part of the stud, so you put your ring crimp over it, a washer, and bolt it down. Because you've got a stud with not metal landing, all of your real electrical connection, is through the threads in your nut to stud. Add to that, your nut is a nylock, so it isn't even necessarily all metal to metal contact. But on a 6mm stud, your thread depth is probably 0.5mm probably a 1mm pitch, and being about 4mm of nut height. That all equates to f**k all quality contact area. Not to mention, all the other joints in that area adding tiny resistances which all add up to bad heat! You're going wire to crimp, crimp to washer, washer to nut, nut to stud, stud to nut, nut to washer, washer to crimp, crimp to wire. 8 joints in a small area, each with a small resistance. If each joint adds 0.01ohm, that's 0.08ohm (basically immeasurable on most digital multimeters, you need a 4 wire measurement). At 25amp, 0.08ohm is giving you a 2V drop. 2V, at 25amp, is 50watts of power. Where is all that power going? Heat. You can now get someone else to go do the mafs on your stud and specific heat, and you'll start to realise why shits melting. Even if you say I've way overestimated the resistance by a factor of 10, a 5w power input constantly as heat, is pretty high too and that's on 0.008ohms! Get a good stud kit, that has a metal landing. Get good quality crimp with plenty of metal in the ring. PS those JayCar ring terminals have the thinnest little ring. That area that GTSBoy indicates is one of the more meaty areas of the ring terminal!
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