Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, thought I would start a new thread as I'm not open to swaps anymore and just after a normal sale.

I Love my R34 but need to sell it so I can start saving money for other things.

It is immaculate inside and out, only a few marks on the rear bar. I'm having the font bar resprayed in the next week or so. I searched for a fair while before I bought this GTT, it has all the features you would want ie Nismo kit, suspension and gauges all factory, and with the mods done to the car it is quite the performance car.

Has a factory sunroof, DVD player, autometer boost gauge (lights up red like dash), climate control, central locking, tinted windows, Nismo 3 gauge setup & cluster standard.

Mods were carried out by Status tuning and the tune by Dr.drift.

Performance Features....

- Splitfire coil packs

- 550cc injectors

- 550 hp ATR-43 turbo

- Z32 Air flow meter

- Stealth return flow front mount intercooler

- Greddy turbo timer

- Nistune ECU

- Trust turbo back exhaust

- Extreme heavy duty street button clutch

- Walbro fuel pump

- Tuned by Dr Drift on a safe tune of 236rwkw at only 15psi, easy to drive (I drive it everyday) and decent fuel economy. Will easily get 450kms to 50 litres with highway driving.

The wheels are 18's, with Kumho ku36's on the rear.

Just fitted a new battery recently to.

Looking for $20,000 as is. Wont need anything for rwc, maybe front tyres. Will sell with rwc will have to sell for more $$$.

If anyone is wondering about the plates in the pics the car does not have them anymore. The reg is XKZ 496.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=128F040C1E00

Contact via PM

Cheers.

post-58557-1275380887_thumb.jpg

post-58557-1275380962_thumb.jpg

post-58557-1275381001_thumb.jpg

post-58557-1275381035_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323093-r34-gtt-vic/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have already bought another car sorry so no swaps.

Bumpage.

Will be getting the car back this weekend and will have had the front bar resprayed aswell as a few bits and pieces so the paint should be pretty awesome :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323093-r34-gtt-vic/#findComment-5346635
Share on other sites

Car is back on the market, sale fell through.

Someone please buy this :( , you'd be hard pressed to find a decent stock example for around 19k yet alone one like this that atleast has some decent mods done and has been treated well by all its owners.

I'm willing to accept 19k for it till reg expires next month, after that I'll porb end up keeping it so if anyone is considering mine now is the time to buy it.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323093-r34-gtt-vic/#findComment-5356809
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...