What Sub Is 4 Me

[08yannch]

hay guys i need some help

im very happy with my DIY stereo install i have 2 6x9 mtx in the back with 2 6.5" splits in the front running 70w rms x4 and i think its time to get a sub just because i think it would really add to the system.

im planning to make a box similar to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...Bo-t204315.html and they way im going to make it im probs going to get 30L so i will have the composite.

what i need help with is the sub and amp. im looking to just do something that will complement my existing system i dont want the big doof doof. and i want to do it for cheap.

[Juz]

Hey

Ok, before anyone starts flaming try and use the "search" tool, or Google next time.

Alright, are you planning on running higher rms on the rear 6x9's via an external Amp? if so why not use a 4 Channel Amp so you can run both the sub/6x9's?

If You just want to run the subwoofer without any other components, I Suggest A Mono Block Amp.

"You can have the best subwoofer in the world, but at the end of the day The overall sound output comes down to the qaulity of the Amp"

So Before Buying A Kick ass $800+ Sub, Focus on your amplifier ( I Know you have said "and i want to do it for cheap", But can I please give my 2 cents, If your going to do it, do it right the first time, Maybe consider saving for a little longer so you can aquire a higher qaulity Bass Output system.)

Now to your subwoofer question... we need more infomation mate, what kind of music do you listen to... how much boot space do you have... etc etc..

And may I also suggest Investing in some dynamat or something of the same use E.G Sound Deadner from Jay Car Electronics, by doing this it will greatly improve the Overall Qaulity of the sound...

I'll keep following this topic, in order to help you!

Juz

[08yannch]

well im sorry if i was not clear enough. my 6x9"'s and 6.5"'s are all done and i have them running of a external amp and have had them 4 about 2yr.

im looking 4 amp, and sub. i have had a look around and i think im going go with a 10" sub because of enclosure volume, cost, and power handling. now when it comes to what actual amp and sub to get im lost. my sub and amp budget is MAX $550.95 . now i have a R33 so boot space is minimal and the plan is to mount the sub to the side facing left to right.

the main things that confuse me are the choice of ohm's (sub) and then how should i go about match a sub with a amp.

dynamat is something i should do but if im going to im going to do it properly and this will mean my car is going to be out of action for 2 days and i really dont have the time 4 now.

almost 4got music i listen to. i listen to mainly rock, metal, and tecno.

im going to continue with my google research alot of good that has done me so far

and thx Juz its nice to know somebody is willing to help me

[08yannch]

my understanding of ohms is the higher the ohm the more accurate the sound and also the higher the ohm of the sub the more power will be required from the amp to power it. correct me if im wrong. the bit i still cant get is the 2ohm 2ohm or 4ohm 4ohm thing. like does a 2 2 = 4 ohm or 2 ohm i dont know. chances are im going to go the safe route and get a 10" R type sub and for amp i was thinking of maybe a response 2ch bridgeable to 1ch 500w rms 4 ohm.

so can any body help with understanding subs and what do u guys think of response amps are they any good

[Carbon 34]

Hey

Ok, before anyone starts flaming try and use the "search" tool, or Google next time.

Alright, are you planning on running higher rms on the rear 6x9's via an external Amp? if so why not use a 4 Channel Amp so you can run both the sub/6x9's?

If You just want to run the subwoofer without any other components, I Suggest A Mono Block Amp.

_{"You can have the best subwoofer in the world, but at the end of the day The overall sound output comes down to the qaulity of the Amp}"

So Before Buying A Kick ass $800+ Sub, Focus on your amplifier ( I Know you have said "and i want to do it for cheap", But can I please give my 2 cents, If your going to do it, do it right the first time, Maybe consider saving for a little longer so you can aquire a higher qaulity Bass Output system.)

Now to your subwoofer question... we need more infomation mate, what kind of music do you listen to... how much boot space do you have... etc etc..

And may I also suggest Investing in some dynamat or something of the same use E.G Sound Deadner from Jay Car Electronics, by doing this it will greatly improve the Overall Qaulity of the sound...

I'll keep following this topic, in order to help you!

Juz

I won't even comment on the above statement, some of it is very wrong info

Dynamat your boot , should only take a half day tops worse case , even for a noob

the whole car will take much longer

jaycar amps, well they took the first place award for value, sound, etc. so yeah there fine

but don't overlook a lot of others either

if you build that box, you better know a bit or the end results will be a mess

must be 100% sealed/solid construction or it will suck , sound deaden the area behind it and remember some cars have vents in the side below that area to let air pressure escape when you close the doors, and if and when your fuel door jams you need to be able to access the area

good luck , but the air volume is enough with some tweaks

[S4LVA]

Building a box like that may not have the optimal air space for the sub. With a budget of $550 there isn't much choice youll be looking at something like a 10" 2ohm mb-quart,polk rockford fosgate low range sub (around $130) and as for the amp you may have to get a 2 channel amp because a decent 500w+ mono will porbably be out of the price range. plus the box will cost around $40 in supplies. honestly though with most of the low range cheaper subs you wont really notice much of a difference in sound but its still good to stick to the better brands just for peace of mind.

[08yannch]

well i think i understand subs and amps somewhat. im budgeting the $550 on sub and amp with every think else not being counted. the projects going to be on hold for about a week just because i dont have time but after that it should be full steam ahead.

im going to be doing a DIY on the sub box and dependent on how it turns out may even make a couple more because the way im planning on making the box im going the have to make a negative so replicating the box will be easy.

im going to give u guy a run down of what has been planned so far the box is going to be constructed from chopped mat fiberglass with MDF bracing, that stretchy fabric stuff and allocations for terminals, and two ball valves (i will explain this). there is a large cavity to allow air flow to the vent under the car so change in boot pressure should not be a problem. the sub is going to be flush mounted with foam tape for gaskets.

the two ball valves are there so that i can purge the box with nitrogen just as a experiment, there are two reasons for this. its a sealed box so the air inside is more prone to expanding dew to temperature changes and this will probs effect audio quality so the nitrogen should stop this. also oxygen is very reactive, and the nitrogen should stop this also so if i ever take the sub out i should not get any surprises. (this is just a experiment)

what has been done so far is the back half of the box area has been taped up and i have the fiberglass and resign, all i real need to do i pick a sub so i can make a MDF ring and the rest should be pretty straight forward just a little time consuming.

for sub im thinking

-KFC-XW1222D kenwood

-CVR102 CompVR Series Kicker

-SWR-1022D Alpine

-TS-W258D2 Pioneer

and amp

-recision Response Car Amp 2x150WRMS http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=595

[S4LVA]

the type r alpine sub is probably the best one from there. Was this all from jb? You can haggle the price down if it was. maybe get $30-40 off each

[R34 -_-]

I went for the Alpine type R 12" with a standard non ported angled box and the type R amp designed to power it (because it was stock clearance) and it goes very well then eventually i bought a much larger slot ported box from soundstream and it went a lot better but in the end i took it out because it jammed my boot shut one day..

The head unit is also important in terms of sound quality isn't it?

[S4LVA]

Ported will always be boomier than sealed. head units these days are all good enough to give you more than decent sound. You wont notice much of a difference in sound when comparing a $140 one to a $700 one.

[Carbon 34]

Ported will always be boomier than sealed. head units these days are all good enough to give you more than decent sound. You wont notice much of a difference in sound when comparing a $140 one to a $700 one.

hahahah OK

all the above statements are wrong 100%

[08yannch]

hahahah OK

all the above statements are wrong 100%

what doesn't a ported box sound lowered most of the time because a properly tuned port will increases efficiency?

and head units i guess the more expensive one will sound better but cant u do alot of the tuning of the amp (if u get a good one) like i have a pioneer head unit got it on sale for $200 and it had all the pre outs at like 4v or something and u can set high pass and the rest, the head unit it accepts all usb devises and if i was to get something similar in alpine i would be looking at $450 and considering the goal was to build a audio system for 1G the $200 could be re directed to other areas.

ok now back to my system im pretty much sold on alpine type R sub BUT usa alpine have the new type R's they are over all better and also checking prices about $200 cheaper, but shipping is like $150 so i really dont want a old type R and i dont want to ship a sub over from the states for $50 saving. so any subs i should be looking at.

[R34L]

try mobileelectronics.com.au/ for answers... its a really good forum

[08yannch]

try mobileelectronics.com.au/ for answers... its a really good forum

thx there is heaps on info on this forum i recommend it to every1

[R34 -_-]

S4LVA:

"Ported will always be boomier than sealed. head units these days are all good enough to give you more than decent sound. You wont notice much of a difference in sound when comparing a $140 one to a $700 one."

Good job trying to flame me, u just burned... i petty da fool!

Edited June 16, 2010 by R34 -_-

[Carbon 34]

what doesn't a ported box sound lowered most of the time because a properly tuned port will increases efficiency?

and head units i guess the more expensive one will sound better but cant u do alot of the tuning of the amp (if u get a good one) like i have a pioneer head unit got it on sale for $200 and it had all the pre outs at like 4v or something and u can set high pass and the rest, the head unit it accepts all usb devises and if i was to get something similar in alpine i would be looking at $450 and considering the goal was to build a audio system for 1G the $200 could be re directed to other areas.

ok now back to my system im pretty much sold on alpine type R sub BUT usa alpine have the new type R's they are over all better and also checking prices about $200 cheaper, but shipping is like $150 so i really dont want a old type R and i dont want to ship a sub over from the states for $50 saving. so any subs i should be looking at.

Long story in wave lengths , volume of car, volume of box, port tuning, bass boost, etc

a real installer can tune the box to whatever they want, ported,sealed,bandpass,transmission line,etc

the bass can be setup for any freq. and sound can be tailored to suite your taste based upon main music material

Alpine Type R is only average in my book, you can find lots better,some a lot cheaper and still name brand stuff

it sounds fine but for what you get you can do much better

once again a $1000 dollar sub in a prefab $100 dollar box with sound shite house

get a box made for the exact sub you want to use. a real box, screwed, glued, no leaks, no rattles, thick MDF wood , fiberglass, or carbon fibre

ported the right way if you go ported, sealed sounds smoother in most cases.

most name brand radios are fine, some can be fussy or unreliable but even a 200 buck deck is 1000 times better then the junk radios they come with from factory

you can overdrive/clip the input signal preamps on the amplifiers with 4v-8v output decks, make sure you know what your doing when you set gains on amps

clipping destroys speakers in a quick way

a 1g system is a reality if you do your own install and shop wise it can be done and sound decent too

[Mendoza]

Id also look at bridging the rear 2 channels for the sub if funds are tight, run the rears off the deck and the fronts and sub from the amp till you can get a monoblock or another amp.

The mobile electroics australia site is great keep an eye on the "for sale section" you might get a bargain.

[r3395]

12 inch sub i rekon mate go around a few shops listen to what they have ask em what size box it is running in etc etc

[S4LVA]

R34 -_-

Are you trying to say a sealed box is louder than ported?

Also you do know a head unit which once cost $700 will end up costing around $200 rrp the next year. So its upto you if you want to spend the extra for no reason or buy the expensive and regret it once the price drops massively.

I went for the Alpine type R 12" with a standard non ported angled box and the type R amp designed to power it (because it was stock clearance) and it goes very well then eventually i bought a much larger slot ported box from soundstream and it went a lot better but in the end i took it out because it jammed my boot shut one day..

Uhhh i thought u said sealed better?

08yannch, The type R's are a nice sub for the price. You wont be disappointed by it as long as your amp can give it enough power.

[08yannch]

here is a update. i got a second hand JL 500/1 V1 for $300 (couldn't get the response amp) and a new DD1508. the amp is all mounted and wired up. i just dont have enough time for the FRP box. i have finished the basic shape now i need to make a mold so i can make the final product.

right now i have a temporary box made from a corona box and a scrap 38mm kitchen top. its not perfect but it will do 4 now.

the FRP box will be sealed at first, but im making allocations for a external port

will probs post pics 2moro