2 Psi Increase?

[ido09s]

dont even bother with a bost controller as the standard ECU has a boost cut built in. From memory its about 11 psi. So those saying that they are running 13psi on a stock ecu have either not got a stock ecu, or are not running 13psi. Give it a go, but be prepared to eat the steering wheel when it cuts in as it is quite a bit more violent than the rev limiter

As has been said, an exhaust is a far better option. It will raise the boost slightly but i have only seen a small handful of R33's that hit boost cut with an exhaust

[bubba]

They have an airflow meter OVERVOLTAGE cut not a BOOST cut, and I believe it is kind of map based (i.e. it might see 4v at 6000rpm and think that is OK but if it sees 4v at 3000rpm it might flip out).

[jordanlisa69]

hay mate im down in chch.

my 33 has a big poddie, turbotech boost t, split dump pipe into 3 inch straight through. i cant run over 10 psi because it hits rich and retard. but when i hooked the standard boost solinoid back up it ran about 6psi straight away and spiked up to about 9 psi. so at top rpm it was getting max power it could. all from the exhaust that was on it. because before the exhaust it would hold boost perfectly.

so if you want your car to run sweet here in these cold temps then all you will need is the 3 inch exaust done. and you will notice a big difference.

plus mine isnt to loud, but it sounds absolutely pure. cops dont pay attention to it.

im upgrading ecu though. to get proper power out of it and run about 12psi. so that should be the next step after the exhaust. hope that helps mate

[mad082]

They have an airflow meter OVERVOLTAGE cut not a BOOST cut, and I believe it is kind of map based (i.e. it might see 4v at 6000rpm and think that is OK but if it sees 4v at 3000rpm it might flip out).

spot on. the air temp can even be enough to trigger it (due to the design of the afm, colder air registers as more air). when i was running 13psi i didn't have any issues during the day, but on a cold morning if i went down through a low gully where there was a pocket of cold air it would cut out if i was boosting it. happened to me on the way to put my car on the dyno one day so i wound the boost down by 1psi to make sure it wouldn't cut out. but when it kicks back in if you are in first or second gear it would start to fry the tyres, LOL.

[senilykSkylines]

hay mate im down in chch.

my 33 has a big poddie, turbotech boost t, split dump pipe into 3 inch straight through. i cant run over 10 psi because it hits rich and retard. but when i hooked the standard boost solinoid back up it ran about 6psi straight away and spiked up to about 9 psi. so at top rpm it was getting max power it could. all from the exhaust that was on it. because before the exhaust it would hold boost perfectly.

so if you want your car to run sweet here in these cold temps then all you will need is the 3 inch exaust done. and you will notice a big difference.

plus mine isnt to loud, but it sounds absolutely pure. cops dont pay attention to it.

im upgrading ecu though. to get proper power out of it and run about 12psi. so that should be the next step after the exhaust. hope that helps mate

Oh ok, sounds interesting. What is a "turbotech boost t"?

So correct me if I am wrong... with a good exhaust, plus a decent cold air intake, it will help the airflow through the engine and decrease the temperature. This enables the turbo to pump more concentrated air which increases the amount of oxygen into the engine. By doing this, the computer records it as higher boost or pressure which spikes it up to 9 psi? when it would run at 6 before?

Forgive my ignorance if I have misunderstood.

I think I am convinced to go for an exhaust first it seems to be the going say of everyone.

cheers guys,

[senilykSkylines]

I said "This enables the turbo to pump more concentrated air which increases the amount of oxygen into the engine."

(I said "more" meaning denser.)

[jordanlisa69]

yea mate. thats right. im having real trouble keeping the boost low because the weather is so cold im half throttling it and its holding 9psi.

and the turbotech is a boost t made by a fellow in oz and it cost me 45 bucks nz and the only thing that would beat it would be a electronic boost controller. im hitting full boost just before 3000rpm. which is very good for standard turbo. There are alot of threads on here about these boost t's

but anyway the exhaust is def the 1st thing to do. get an aftermarket boost guage as well, i have an auto gauge which is perfect ( cost me 60 bucks brand new on trademe ). it gives you a much better boost reading especially when your about to upgrade something that will alter boost levels. and you will be able to see the exact increase.

[senilykSkylines]

No, A full exhaust, hi flow cat, dump pipe and filter upgrade might see that sort of increase. (don't change manifold unless your changing turbo) But you might not even feel much change.

If your chasing the sort of gain an extra 2psi will produce then I suggest looking into the cars handling first, Ie swaybars, tyre/rims, suspension, Hicas lock bar, castor & camber adjustments, Brakes!etc

You will feel a much better improvement doing this.

Then when the car no longer handles like a boat, look into increasing the power. Change the boost from the stock 5psi to 7 psi @ 4500rpm and make it 12 psi from 3000 rpm or whatever and you'll notice a much more rewarding change.

Just do lots of reading on the forums and you will learn a lot.

Hikas lock bar?

I am wondering what this actually does because I think I may need it. When the car goes over a bumpy patch of road it feels like the back swings out to the side a bit...making it feel quite scary. Is this the hikas? (4 wheel steering kicking in at the wrong time lol). My old N/A R33 seemed to feel safer on the road and handle better, but then again it did have advanti mags on wheras my new one has R34's on it. But that shouldn't make the car feel like it swings out on (in my opinion) rather mild bumpy patches.

My wife even noticed it when driving.

However on a smooth road it handles awesome and can get around corners really well.

Overall, I just wonder why the car feels like it is a little more swingy and unstable at times. Suspension is tight and seems to be really good....

Any ideas?

[89CAL]

it could be HICAS, have a search for the HICAS diagnostic mode on here or search in google theres a good video showing how to do it and what all the faults are pretty sure.

If you just want to ditch it then look into a HICAS lock bar

Just as a word of warning, dont EXPECT to gain what others have gained with certain mods. You may very well do it but from experience each skyline is different.

Mine only pulled 136rwkw or something like that with pod, full 3" exhaust, intercooler, splitfire coilpacks and 8 or 9psi. My car hated any more boost then that and would cut the engine at about 4500rpm

adding a Power FC (Aftermarket ECU) upped my power big time.

By all means do the mods, and you may get the power you want. But just trying to make sure you dont get your hopes up and be as disapointed as i was when my skyline had its first dyno run

[jjman]

The feeling that you are getting that you think might be hicas would be from your suspension (it is aftermarket in your GTST?) as well as different rims/tyres.

HICAS operates based on throttle % in relation to steering angle (more of both in combination = more rear wheel steer from HICAS). I have both an NA R33 and a GTST R33. I can feel the HICAS so much more in the NA because the throttle input is that much more because of the lower amount of power the NA makes (therefore requiring a far greater throttle application for the same power while cornering). Iv got to say i barely feel the HICAS in my GTST.

I think you are confusing it with that twitchy feeling that comes from bumps when in a car with stiffer suspension and different wheels...

Otherwise, check your bushes and bearings, it could be something more sinister at work

Hikas lock bar?

I am wondering what this actually does because I think I may need it. When the car goes over a bumpy patch of road it feels like the back swings out to the side a bit...making it feel quite scary. Is this the hikas? (4 wheel steering kicking in at the wrong time lol). My old N/A R33 seemed to feel safer on the road and handle better, but then again it did have advanti mags on wheras my new one has R34's on it. But that shouldn't make the car feel like it swings out on (in my opinion) rather mild bumpy patches.

My wife even noticed it when driving.

However on a smooth road it handles awesome and can get around corners really well.

Overall, I just wonder why the car feels like it is a little more swingy and unstable at times. Suspension is tight and seems to be really good....

Any ideas?

[senilykSkylines]

The feeling that you are getting that you think might be hicas would be from your suspension (it is aftermarket in your GTST?) as well as different rims/tyres.

HICAS operates based on throttle % in relation to steering angle (more of both in combination = more rear wheel steer from HICAS). I have both an NA R33 and a GTST R33. I can feel the HICAS so much more in the NA because the throttle input is that much more because of the lower amount of power the NA makes (therefore requiring a far greater throttle application for the same power while cornering). Iv got to say i barely feel the HICAS in my GTST.

I think you are confusing it with that twitchy feeling that comes from bumps when in a car with stiffer suspension and different wheels...

Otherwise, check your bushes and bearings, it could be something more sinister at work

Thanks.

It will swing...wobble on the back a bit when driving at 40-80km cruising over a rough patch of road with a slight turn in the road. It is not loosing traction. It just doesn't feel as firm and controlled on the road as my N/A did. You could be driving on the road at 100km and it would sometimes change direction very slightly...almost drift/turn instead of stay straight over little bumps.

Supsension is stock as far as I know but it feels tighter than my N/A, I assume it is just the turbo version's tighter suspension.

My plan is to get some more advanti mags and see how it goes.

I can't explain it, it honestly feels like the back wheels turn as they go over a bit of rougher tar-seal road, or the suspension is so tight that the car rear bounces sideways over rough road LOL...doubt it.

cheers

[Mattw_83]

Thanks.

It will swing...wobble on the back a bit when driving at 40-80km cruising over a rough patch of road with a slight turn in the road. It is not loosing traction. It just doesn't feel as firm and controlled on the road as my N/A did. You could be driving on the road at 100km and it would sometimes change direction very slightly...almost drift/turn instead of stay straight over little bumps.

Supsension is stock as far as I know but it feels tighter than my N/A, I assume it is just the turbo version's tighter suspension.

My plan is to get some more advanti mags and see how it goes.

I can't explain it, it honestly feels like the back wheels turn as they go over a bit of rougher tar-seal road, or the suspension is so tight that the car rear bounces sideways over rough road LOL...doubt it.

cheers

sounds like a stuffed shock to me?

mine felt this way when i had a buggered shock absorber

[senilykSkylines]

sounds like a stuffed shock to me?

mine felt this way when i had a buggered shock absorber

Thanks mate, I'll get it checked, i think and will get some better mags sometime.

[jjman]

I didnt realise that the symptoms were that bad-yeah definately sounds like a shock. My GTST had a blown shock when i got it and did that sort of shit to..

just jack it up and have a look at the shocks. If one looks really oily that is your problem. Also with a f*kd shock you should not be able to get any power down cornering as the wheel with the buggered shock will just spin up...

BC coilovers are pretty sweet replacements and an awesome price.

Sorry to rob this guy's '2psi' thread...

[senilykSkylines]

I didnt realise that the symptoms were that bad-yeah definately sounds like a shock. My GTST had a blown shock when i got it and did that sort of shit to..

just jack it up and have a look at the shocks. If one looks really oily that is your problem. Also with a f*kd shock you should not be able to get any power down cornering as the wheel with the buggered shock will just spin up...

BC coilovers are pretty sweet replacements and an awesome price.

Sorry to rob this guy's '2psi' thread...

Its my thread anyway

[Shazza24]

+1 for checking suspension. Or your HICAS may be unplugged? My friend unplugged his for a while and from the back you could see the two rear tyres moving slightly.

[senilykSkylines]

Ok,

I haven't got enough money for a full exhaust system right now, still, I was impatient to fiddle with the car and bought a GFB boost T and a boost gauge all at a good price.

Talking to the guy at the shop, he reconed that I needed to get the fuel pump checked and stuff like that to see if it was up to scratch to handle more boost so that it would not run lean.

Although I plan to do that one day and run it on a dyno; would it still be reasonably safe to hook up the boost T etc and run 2psi without checking the rest of the system immediately? The car has only done 117,000km so I would have thought that it would be alright.

Loooking forward to installing...

[senilykSkylines]

Just had a 3" turbo back exhaust done. Wow, makes a difference. I am even getting 5 1/2psi boost down low and 8psi up high.

Great upgrade.

Haven't done a dyno yet but I would be curious as to what power its doin now... I'll do the free boost mod soon hopefully

Edited September 14, 2010 by senilykSkylines

[simpletool]

And to answer the original question......ie. 2psi gain expectations.

If the turbo is still efficient (which it will be) and you don't hit the retarded area in the last column of the ECU map then you will make.

Y = X(O + 2)/O

Where:

Y = your new power level

X = your original power level

O = your original absolute boost pressure level (ie. boost + 1 atmosphere or 14.7psi)

[paulr33]

D13 = 140rwkw (STOCK ECR33)

D14 = 9psi

171.1=D13*(D14+2)/D14

i think if the ECU was tuned properly and suitable exhaust, intercooler, intake etc

but with bog stock everything adding 2psi i dont think will give you those gains above