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By elohim_imanu · Posted
I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available. 5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching. -
I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice! Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail? -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
@Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good. Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/ I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I wouldn't think you would need a flyback diode, as it's an OEM replacement parts for a fan controller/relay on a Dodge. Another tried and tested option are the Volvo XC90 (or similar) fan controllers. -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Just checking, with this would you need anything else to get yourself up and running? Do I need a flyback diode, pull up resistors or anything else?
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