Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive seen many movies on youtube and seen a couple vl's and skylines with screamer pipes but they all are external wastegates.

Iv came across this one someones sellin on ebay and was wondering if this can actually b done on an internal set-up?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=tab%3DWatching

I had a look on youtube and theres a few movies with internal screamer pipes but they may just say that??

So if this IS possible would there be any power loss/gains??

Or would it just sound like it has somethin majorly wrong and "choof"?

Any help would be great guys

cheers chalky

i disagree with the two above statements.

yes it you just bolt one on it will sound like crap.

this i due to the constant exhaust leak from the main pipe to the screamer pipe.

this problem can be fixed with a divider between the two pipes in the back of the turbo.

most screamed pipes you buy have a divider but it is no were near big-enough

to fix this problem i made up dome shims out of some steel sheets i had laying around.

i also used some exhaust gasket for the final shim to create a near perfect seal.

this took me about 3.5 hours including the time to take the turbo off and put it back on on my mates RB20.

the most time was taken in shimming the spacer to suit the rear housing of the turbo.

i suggest you get your hands on a set of digital vernier calipers. so you can get the clearancers as tight as possible.

so in short yes they sound like crap strait out of the box but can be modified to sound good but is time consuming.

you may experience slight power gain's depending on if you exhaust is restrictive.

also we put the rb25neo turbo on at the same time witch made a big difference.

BTW when done right sounds like real gate!!!!! :domokun:

good luck

Edited by sickr33
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...