Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18x8 +30s on the left 18x10.5 +22 on the right.

wheels.jpg

IMG_0437.JPG

IMG_0439.JPG

rear_gl.jpg

gl.jpg

These were originally for my Z32 but never got to fitting them, now I feel like something new for the JZX100.

The 18x8s are brand new, and the 18x10.5s are in perfect condition. I had the rears color matched to the fronts and had a couple of minor blemishes touched up at the same time, so they're in new condition as well.

Priced to sell - $2200 (i paid over 900 a rim) or $2600 with Yokohama Advan 235/35 + Kuhmo 265/35 tyres.

I'm located on the Sunshine Coast QLD. Can do pickup or courier at your expense.

beck u will need to pump the f**k out of ur guards to fit these under neath.

the fronts will fit with no problem at all

the rears are another story

fkn odd staggering

if they were 9.5 front and 10.5 rear i would have bought them

Can anyone confirm if these will fit my R34 Gtt??

Im running full Cusco Coilovers & Ajustable arms etc..

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated

Pretty sure you'll need guard work for the rears, fronts should be fine

edit: beat me to it julz lol

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's no way they left the factory like that. In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other. The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)
    • It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons. I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!
    • Thanks for the info mate was thinking 255/35 rears and 235/40 fronts
    • What's the difference? I would have said that between the front and rear axle lines, there's no noticeable diff between a GTR and an NA 2-door.
    • It will be salvageable. It really doesn't matter what is damaged. Opening up a 30+ year old motor for a rebuild immediately means a complete rebuild of the head anyway. Damaged valves just means an opportunity to put in some nice new ones. And in the modern day, why would you not throw at least a nice set of pistons at something. And if you're doing that, why not rods, and ARP fasteners, and so on.
×
×
  • Create New...