Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im looking to do a few of my dream mods with my tax return but not really sure on where to buy stuff, basically just want to know where ppl recomend to go. ive filled in a few blanks in my search this moring but yer still a few holes.

- Eyelids - import monster

- Hicas lock bar - ??? ive seen a few on ebay but dont want to risk getting a dodgy one, recomendations?

- Rear sway bar - ??? r34 kind of fits but not perfect, what has everyone done?

- Gt3076 - ebay $400-$500

- Nistune - mercury motorsport

- Fix paint - il do that at work

- New front bar - ??? cant find a link that works

- Clear indicators - ebay $50

- Coil overs - ebay $1100

- Rear camber arms - ebay $140

- Front cradle bushes - ??? r33 or r34

- I pod head unit - jbhifi $300

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323499-info-on-where-to-get-stuff/
Share on other sites

the Whiteline reference for the rear sway bar is BNR11XX (24mm solid).

You may be able to find someone to make one in 24mm solid bar by using your stock one as a pattern.

A GT3076 is about $2000 new or a little less second hand. I personally wouldn't bother with a Chinese copy for a turbo or an exhaust manifold (I do have a Chinese copy of the GReddy FF plenum).

updates

- Eyelids - $120 vivagarage

- Hicas lock bar - ??? ive seen a few on ebay but dont want to risk getting a dodgy one, recomendations?

- Rear sway bar - ??? r34 kind of fits but not perfect, what has everyone done?

- roof rail replacement kit - ???

- Gt3076 - ebay $400-$500

- Nistune - mercury motorsport

- Fix paint - il do that at work

- new front bar - $300 vivagarage

- Clear indicators - ebay $50

- Coil overs - ebay $1100

- Rear camber arms - ebay $140

- Front cradle bushes - ??? r33 or r34

- I pod head unit - jbhifi $300

When our kits are finally here, come take a look at the roof rail panels we have had made... keep an eye on my roof rail thread: they are overdue already, but by all indications should be here in the next week or so...

yer ive been watching the thread but doesnt seem like they are ever going to come. how much are they going to cost? and after your current group buy how long will it take to get some made?

There's the $40mil question: how long?? It should be a reasonable time frame after the first batch: it's just this initial run that's taking so long. pricing for this run is $600 for fibreglass, $900 (? i think that was it?) for carbon fibre.

They WILL be finished: I have invested too much money and frustration into this not to have an acceptable result :)

i think you'll find anything labeled GT30 on eBay and going for $500 will either be blown up or a dodge chinese copy. if you shop around a GT30 will go for about $1500, go to somewhere like MTQ (garrett dealers), they are out acacia ridge way. it will be slightly more for an internal wastegate one if you want to go that way.

coilovers, go to justjap, for just over $1000 they have a few options, i got the BC's they offer and am happy with them. otherwise you'll be up for a bit of coin goes for some new teins.

also check out darrinspencer's thread he made not to long ago about hicas lock bars, the R33/R34 one he got was too short.

if your ok with pillow-ball rear camber arms (they can get a little squeaky and transfer a little noise) than ebay has a few options as do a few of the other import part sellers. i was looking at a pair of whiteline KTA-128's, they are still a bush mount (nice and quite) and with whiteline you know the quality is good. but are ~$350 a pair.

also another option for nistune is EFI performance at stapylton. they've been doing nistune for a while now.

i think you'll find anything labeled GT30 on eBay and going for $500 will either be blown up or a dodge chinese copy. if you shop around a GT30 will go for about $1500, go to somewhere like MTQ (garrett dealers), they are out acacia ridge way. it will be slightly more for an internal wastegate one if you want to go that way.

coilovers, go to justjap, for just over $1000 they have a few options, i got the BC's they offer and am happy with them. otherwise you'll be up for a bit of coin goes for some new teins.

also check out darrinspencer's thread he made not to long ago about hicas lock bars, the R33/R34 one he got was too short.

if your ok with pillow-ball rear camber arms (they can get a little squeaky and transfer a little noise) than ebay has a few options as do a few of the other import part sellers. i was looking at a pair of whiteline KTA-128's, they are still a bush mount (nice and quite) and with whiteline you know the quality is good. but are ~$350 a pair.

also another option for nistune is EFI performance at stapylton. they've been doing nistune for a while now.

yer i was looking at chinese style turbos, i never had any problems with the to4e i bought but yer i would deffinately prefer to go real if i can afford it.

the coilovers i found on ebay are from just jap, its just there prices are cheaper on ebay then on there website. may have been the bcs i was looking at.

darrinspencers thread is what got me worried about what im suposed to buy, i was hoping someone had found a direct fit. its not really that important to get rid of it just scares me sometimes, makes it feel out of control on hard corners

as for your camber arms response that exactly the kind of info i was after, i would trust whiteline alot more then the others.

i considered efi performance too just typed mercury, depends on what they are like when i go see them.

thank you for your responses :thumbsup:

considered getting a highflow of your stock turbo?

if you go to garret they will charge you about $1500 for a ball bearing core and will make a decent amount of power

or go to hypeargear and for $800-900 you can get a turbo that is good for about 250-270rwkw and that is not much laggier than stock (also good for 20psi)

not pushing you towards hypergear, just dont know all that much about garret (gcg)

I had a GCG highflow and it was fine. Bolted straight back in and looked completely stock. But it cost just over $1800 for the BB version (even with the SAU discount) which is why I would consider a GT3076 instead although it would need at least a spacer and maybe some new lines made up and cost a few hundred more...worth it if you are considering going RB30 some-time down the line.

Have heard good things about the Hypergear rebuilds - mostly journal bearings but half the price!

i know that there is a line where people like bb turbos and people dont like them, im on the side that doesnt like them. ive seen a few have malfunctions for silly little things like backfires etc..

i was considering the hypergear route but i cant really have my car off the road that long.

i know that there is a line where people like bb turbos and people dont like them, im on the side that doesnt like them. ive seen a few have malfunctions for silly little things like backfires etc..

i was considering the hypergear route but i cant really have my car off the road that long.

it only takes them a few days, im sure if you ask them and say that you need it asap they could have it done in less (i.e. tell you when there is only 1 highflow in front of yours so you can then pull it off)

or scour the forums for a blown r34 turbo (r34 has a bigger rear housing and flows that little bit more than an r33 one)

i was just on the hypergear website and they have a few diffrent atr43 style turbos for the rb25 for $1250 has anyone got one of these?? how close of a direct fit is it??

You need to change all the intake pipe and etc its not a bolton setup on the compressor side. How ever Turbine side is. Since you got a OP6 rear housing just get them to high flow it. capable of about 260rwkws and no EPA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
    • You reckon? I have to disagree. Notwithstanding that at some point we may all be forced to do this to our cars if we want to keep driving them, there is absolutely nothing about an electric-converted-previously-IC-car that is ever good. EVs that are built by OEMs on platforms that were originally IC already suck, let alone the shitty outcomes that result from doing it as a retro to something that was actually built as an IC car. This is because the platform really needs to be designed to house the battery in a useful place (ie, down as low as possible) and the motors are properly located relative to the wheels that they have to drive. Converted platforms already suck at this. But when you try to shove sufficient battery capacity into a previously IC car, you can't put it down on/in the floor, because that space doesn't exist. You can't find enough space where the fuel tank used to be (if it is an inboard fuel tank) and you don't want to hang it out behind the rear axle line if you had a rear fuel tank. And there's not enough space in the tunnel if you still want to use it for anything remotely like what it was originally used for. The engine bay is too big for a motor, and you'd really prefer that the motor for the rear wheels wasn't in the front engine bay anyway. And there's not enough room where the diff was for a proper man-sized E motor. And then.... there is the complete lack of soul and emotion that is provided by EVs. There are some cracking restomods out there. Like the Alfaholics GTA thingo. But it is petrol powered. Look at the alternative EV version of a GTA restomod by Totem. it is jaw droppingly beautiful. But by all reports is is objectively awful to drive, despite having 600 HP or something, simply because there is nothing there. It sounds like a sewing machine or a leaf blower. It should scream and wail and make the hairs on your neck stand up. Oh, and it's 1500 bloody kg in a car that was <900kg when new. GTRs are heavy enough as it is without pushing them up to 2tonnes worth of pork.
    • https://www.dezeen.com/2025/01/06/nissan-electric-r32-skyline-gt-r-godzilla-sports-car/   I reckon this is pretty cool. Lots of other Resto mods have turned to ev power.
    • hahaha @joshuaho96 the most action it gets is when I have to drive from West to SE VIC to meet the fam. Even then, it;s on highway cruising speeds
    • don't know anyone in this thread, but i just found it, read the entire thing in a few hours, realized greg is still posting progress, and just have to say, this is awesome. it looks awesome. 100% right about the Uras kit making it a pain to get on hoists...have the same kit on my 34 and it takes six 2x4s and race ramps to do it without taking parts off. this reminds me exactly of this thread. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/r63-amg-the-unicorn-of-my-destruction/110824/page8/
×
×
  • Create New...