Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I was hoping someone could help me find a coil pack cover for an RB25DET locally. I know there are few available in the for sale section/ebay, but I was hoping to get one on my car ASAP, specifically before it rains again. My story is that I bought the car 2 weeks ago and everything has been fine, but it started misfiring quite badly earlier this week. I worked out that the problem was water had pooled up quite a lot in two of the park plug valleys, seemingly enough to create a short circuit, in turn causing the misfire along with corroding the plugs. The water came from the heavy rain the car was out in all last weekend I assume, with the problem being contributed too by the state of my current coil cover: Its was cut in two pieces (I guess so you can get it of easier), the rubber seals have had it and it was missing a few bolts for good measure. Anyways, if anyone know where I can get an OEM one soon, that'd be great, or even one of the unnecessary glamour aftermarket ones if the price is reasonable.

Also, I was looking to get an R34 SMIC for my R33. I was hoping someone who has put a FMIC into their R34 GTT has one sitting around I could pick up cheap, if so, let me know. Also, before anyone lines up a post saying "just get a FMIC" or mentions something along the lines of "volumetric cross flow rate vs intake temperature" or alludes to the susseptability of a SMIC to "heatsink", just go easy :blush: . Furthermore, do you think this is the kind of mod that I should be looking to do myself, or is there someone who I could take it to in Fyswick (where I work) who would do it during the day whilst I'm at work so I don't have to make any travel arrangements?

lol yeah, I've got the impression that the vast, vast majority of R33's have a coil cover in much better nick than the one I've got. Also, I've seen you the ads for your car, The interior/exterior looks in super condition, I'd be too scared to touch it.

why get a34 smic? the volumetric cross flow rate vs intake temperature is nowhere near a fmic and the smic will act as a heatsink. you should just get a fmic.

lolz i contribute nothing.

Don't think you will find anyone with a 34 SMIC lying around as it is typically so easy to sell them as an upgrade. Hopefully I'm proven wrong.

lol I still have mine sitting in the workshop at home... make an offer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...