Jump to content
SAU Community

Missfire Boost@4500-5500 RPM - The Answer! (for me at least!)


Recommended Posts

Quick question ppl..

Can someone describe what this feels like when occuring..

Went for a drive on sat in an R33 - in second car would hit about 4,000 - 4,500 than for a split second it would lag/pause/slow/stop/cruise however you want to put it for about 500rpm than it would kick in again and race to redline..

is this the same issue.. talked to the guy and he said "most likely fix it by adjusting the timing".. wasn't sure about that, seems to be the same issue as this..

didn't hear any missing, didn't feel like it.. just kinda paused for a second than came back on the power..

I'm having some trouble. Put new spark plugs in gapped to 0.8mm. I thought the coils looked ok. Couldn't see a hairline crank on the front, though maybe I missed it. But most of the coils had stange bits on the side where it looked like they had seen lots of heat.

Just lately I get a misfire, well more like a boost cut but it happens at just above 3000rpm up a hill in 4th gear at 0.65bar (about 9.5psi).. I thought maybe it is the ECU sensing too much airflow and going rich and retard. But I thought this was at more like 12-14psi...

Can somebody have a look at the pics below..not the best but gives an idea of the what is going on on the side. I heard somebody in the thread saying the heat on the side may be from arcing?

img01967ss.jpg

img01972ln.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I did a decent job of taping my coils up, worked fine for about 1 week

then back to the same old crap of laggin round 4500-5000rpm

have since poured some octane boost into a 1/4 tank of petrol and it now revs straight to 7500rpm

definately think the coils can be a bit of an issue but is more likely due to poor octane ratings of aussie petrol

just took my car for a thrash with the boost wound up to about 1 bar and it is still loving it

why oh why dont they sell some decent petrol in australia

hey, I had the same problem for 3 weeks. it started off, missing and shitting its self around 4 to 6 tho.

And as the weeks went by it got worse, anything over 2 grand made her crap on!

i pulled out my coil packs and a few of them were marked like were you can see spark has been jumping out of the side of the coil..

i checked the plugs, they were alittle but crap from fule not being burnt.. but i cleaned them and wacked them back in.. and slipped in some new split fire coil packs in..

took her out for a belt and it works fine now, up around 6 and a half grand she splatted once but i have noticed a big jump in get up and go!!

Oh and idling is HEAPS better, it used to surge a little, now gone..

The only other thing im going to do next is take the AF sensor out and spray some contact cleaner on the sensor part, Im sure that will help a little bit too..

the last time i cleaned out my air filter, i think i used too much oil in the filter, and if it gets on the sensor it will cause it to faul up !

So i think a few of my coils are still fine, ill have a good look at them and test the ones that are good, and if anyone wants to buy some off me they can..

[email protected]

Have any of you guys had you computer's remapped to run on 98 octane petrol

would like to hear any experiences people have had after getting their ECU reprogrammed

Coils seem to be part of this problem of missfiring, but im sure the low octane ratings of aussie petrol are having a significant affect on performance

Most of this cars would be running on petrol with octane ratings of 100 or more in japan

From what I understand jap fuel is 100.

2 points doesn't make a big difference.

The majority of people do not have issues with missfiring.

It is definitely not the fuel, rather the coils.

My PowerFC's base map ran aggressive ign. timing at WOT.

It only made the thing ping its head off, no miss-fires.

However, there is such a thing has a lean missfire. Run the car lean, it will detonate then get to the point where there isn't enough fuel and will begin to missfire.

Took my coils put today and 3 were split on the greay part surrounding the metal thing. Very technical eh? Taped them up but in thr process I noticed a shitload of green calcium build up and general crud up inside.

I took a Dremel (small high speed drill thingy) and lightly ground the inside of each coil pack until it was shiny again. I already had new springs inside and I screwed a tiny allen bolt up the guts of each spring to replicate the factory set up.

In all I had about 3 teaspoons of carbon/calcium/crud I removed from all the coilpacks.

Result is fixed mis firing, stronger performance, better idle. :rofl: Worth the effort if you have the tools.

Took my coils put today and 3 were split on the greay part surrounding the metal thing. Very technical eh? Taped them up but in thr process I noticed a shitload of green calcium build up and general crud up inside.

I took a Dremel (small high speed drill thingy) and lightly ground the inside of each coil pack until it was shiny again. I already had new springs inside and I screwed a tiny allen bolt up the guts of each spring to replicate the factory set up.

In all I had about 3 teaspoons of carbon/calcium/crud I removed from all the coilpacks.

Result is fixed mis firing, stronger performance, better idle. ;) Worth the effort if you have the tools.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=51046&page=2 post #57

No need for Dremel tool.

Just spray some WD-40 or CRC-50 on them and it washes off instantly!

Then just rub inside with a bit of steel wool for a few seconds and they are right to go.

well, i can say after puting in the new coil packs. It went alot better, but it has come back!!

noooooo, but not as bad! it feels like when ya in 4th and you power up alittle it hits this ,,, like flat spot, but its a miss spot! thats when it starts to piss me off..

I took the AF meter off, and sprayed a heap of contact cleaner(the one that desnt leave a resadue) and let it dry... but still doing it!!

ill change the apark plugs on the week end, and if that desnt fix it... well im going to sell it and get a holden

nah mine did not come out with just degreaser or anything. Its easier with a high speed buffer anyway :thumbsup: Mine were well and truly stuffed...

To do one of them with steel wool wrapped around the end of a drill bit (I know it's no dremel tool) took me a few minutes, and there was still some left...

To do all 6 with WD40 took 30 seconds. I then used the steel wool to clean any residue. Spraying degreaser will do nothing, you need to use WD40 or CRC50.

WD40 is much easier.

reagardless, the car runs fine now and the packs are nice and shiny. How ever its done doesn't really matter. I tried with all sorts of cleaners last time, they did sfa. I think after 15 years it was beyond it.

The dremel took 5 seconds on each coil to bring them up like new so I still stand by the method if you have access to one.

whatever works for you :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.
    • On a 400hp RB, what benefits other than "it's not 30+ years old" are you seeing from the NZ Wiring Kit trigger setup? If it were me going to change triggering, my belief would be to go for a crank trigger to remove the issues caused by what people claim is belt stretch etc, but that's from my understanding a much larger issue for super high power, rather than those in the 400hp and below club.
    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
×
×
  • Create New...