Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok

I had a old turbosmart boost controol in my r32 (borrowd of a mate for a drag meet) and wasn't happy with it as it spiked at 14PSI and droped of to 10PSI and just seemed dogy to me. I had the car dyno run with this in and made 136RWKW all was good,AFR were fine and haddent noticed any eng issues.

(this was done while temp was 32 and 90% humidity i live in darwin)

Now the dry season has kicked in and i have started to notice the mertalic rattling sound when im at full boost (3/4 throtal 5000+ rpm)

so ive being safe and satyed off full boost.

I then had my new turbotech (off ebay and has being featured in hot-4's mag) so i poped it in and like the diffrence, boost came on much stronger and stayed at it's set level (14psi) but i noticed it's detonating still, so i had a try at adjusting it. bad idea it's still detonating and now doesn't pull has hard.

Im planing on getting it on a dyno to set the boost but could i also be looking at spark plugs and or coil pack's on the way out.

I have had a bit of a look but nuthing that realy answers my question.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323588-detonation-pining/
Share on other sites

the main causes of pinging/detonation are excessive intake temps, poor fuel, or too much timing

what intercooler

how is the state of tune

how is your cold air intake setup

what are the intake temps

what fuel are you using

@90% humidity, you effectively have a form of water injection, useful for preventing detonation. Now that the air is dry, that water injection has gone, you no longer have the protection against detonation.

Try backing a couple of degrees out of the timing.

things may have changed since it was last on the dyno. your fuel pump could be dying for example. that would be leaning the afr's out and causing the detonation. or it could just be from the change in humidity as blind_elk said. also if the air temps are colder then that may be affecting things as well

the main causes of pinging/detonation are excessive intake temps, poor fuel, or too much timing

what intercooler STOCK SMIC

how is the state of tune STOCK AS FAR AS I KNOW

how is your cold air intake setup EXSPOSEDPOD (WAITING ON BOX TO BE MADE)

what are the intake temps HAVNT MEASURED would say 50plus deg (is pretty hot when i touch it)

what fuel are you using 95 RON it the highest up hear that get's used regurly only 3 servos sell 98 at close to $1.70p/l and you dont know know how offten that gets changed.

HAVE ATTACHED THE DYNO GRAPH BEFORE THIS STARTED.

post-32868-1275706409_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275706972_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275707078_thumb.jpg

post-32868-1275707223_thumb.jpg

Edited by redliningr31 skyline

so there you have it

you have 3 critical elements to cause excessive detonation / pinging

lots of boost

a shit intercooler

a poor cold air intake system

and poor fuel

so you will need to negate at least one or two of those to correct it

better fuel will certianly help

a better intercooler will help, but it is only as good as the ambient air temp

less boost will always help

a good cold air intake will certainly help

i woudnt bother with another SMIC

your ambient temp is excessive at best, so you need as much help as possible

a larger core directly in the airflow is a big step in the right direction

the SMIC is useless, too small, in the wrong location and won't be effective enough

and you've been told what you need to do :( , here it is in list form:

change the fuel pump (044/040 bosh is what most people use)

fmic (obviously)

cold air intake (stock air box modified imo is the easies/best way)

better fuel (if it's possible , what fuel are you using at the moment?? )

As mentioned by blind_elk, the humidity in the air acts as a form of water injection into your engine. Water is a great suppressant for detonation and why its used with a blend of methanol in injection systems /offtopic

r34 smic will need the outlet pipe cut and welded onto the other side.

Although being in such a hot place in australia, as much as im pro-smic, you might be better off with a fmic as your smic will probably suffer in the constant darwin heat.

As mentioned by blind_elk, the humidity in the air acts as a form of water injection into your engine. Water is a great suppressant for detonation and why its used with a blend of methanol in injection systems /offtopic

r34 smic will need the outlet pipe cut and welded onto the other side.

Although being in such a hot place in australia, as much as im pro-smic, you might be better off with a fmic as your smic will probably suffer in the constant darwin heat.

Ive managed to find one that has being moded allready, plus i move back to melbourne end of next year.

can't for the life of my work out why you're f**king around with upgrading to an r34 smic with plans to later upgrade again to a fmic

gigantic waste of time and money

who says you need to upgrade to a fmic? Im running an ARC smic and pushing 210kw at the wheels... The r34 smic can handle 200kw and thats the going power rate for a r32 these days. Dont need a 300kw fmic which a smic can handle quite well for 200kw power goal

and seeing as a r34 smics can cost $50 and modifyng to fit is another $50, i think for $100 its much better than some chinese quality fmic which needs your whole front end cut up. No gigantic waste of money or time mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Each province differs a bit but we only do mandatory vehicle inspections here for heavy vehicles (Think Ford F350 and up). Those inspections are done by mechanics that are approved by the government. Besides that, it's a free for all as long as the car looks stock.  I asked because I love seeing how engineering differs from country to country. Here in Canada, all designs must be stamped and signed before they can be brought to fruition. (I.E Bridges, structures, Electrical panels, machines, literally everything shy of a wooden table) This can only be done by a professional engineer or professional engineering technologist. Both are protected titles, but the latter having more of a limited scope in what they can stamp. To become a professional engineer, you must complete a 4-5 year bachelors degree in your field of engineering, be part of an engineering order and undergo 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and mandatory continues education. Same story for engineering technologists, but a 3 year associates degree in some form of engineering technology will suffice. If you do not comply, or pretend you're an engineer or technologist, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails and kills someone (I.E Bridge collapse) Off to jail you go for a very long time, your family will be ridiculed on the news, neighbours will surround your home with pitch forks and your dog will disown you.  Same for specialised trades... Example Electricians must undergo 1.5 years of post high school education, 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and hold proper licences. It's for the best, but then we also wonder why we're so short on engineers and tradesmen haha
    • Not currently, I'm at the school where we teach people to build bridges and other fun things that involve making, or breaking things
    • I have a friend who has used Chequered Tuning and CMS. Went to CMS when Chequered had a long wait time which is kind of the norm (for good reason). Was very happy - I'm pretty sure the very simple thing you're asking will be simple.
    • lol that caught up a year quickly! good to see you on the track again, hoping to do it myself one day
    • Nah he was mega organised, the sort of guy that put (almost) every tool back every day, it made trying to work out where things were up to possible.  My shed needs a swedish death clean, I would have >20 part done jobs, its particularly hard to collect all required parts for a job ahead of time when you can't just pop into a shop and grab things
×
×
  • Create New...