Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys...looking at getting a greddy emanage ultimate installed on my AUTO...r33 gtst. I know most tuners like efi, apc, 999, pits etc.. have speicalise in particular brands of ecu's, and I would just would like some help in deciding which tuner to pick that does good work with the greddy ecu's around south east QLD (either coast, brisbane etc).

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323826-tuners-for-emanage-ulitmate/
Share on other sites

Pits wont.

I sold mine a few years ago in favour for the PFC, just so much easier.

Its a shame you cant use a PFC :D

PFC arnt all that man, ill rate emanage. keeps stock ecu cold start settings etc. MINT !!! piggy back

hitup STZ fo sure.

im in the middle of getting an emanage myself :domokun:

Thanks for the help everyone!!! STZ sound pretty good for the emanage and anymore info....KEEP IT COMING LOL......

finally a bit off topic, but has anyone got info on whether or not a z23 vg30dett AUTO ecu, will work as a replacement for the ecr33 auto ecu??? because if that was the case i could also concider a nistune for my ecu option aswell.....

I had an emanage ultimate for a year or 2.

seemed to have loads of problems, so I got rid of it and went for a nistune -more reliable, cheaper, more choice of tuners, etc.

i like the idea of the emanage, but i dont think they work so well with 34's

now very happy with Nistune

Yeah believe me, if i can find out if i can get the z32 auto ecu, to work as a replacement for the ecr33 ill be getting a nistune no worries lol....

talk to EFI Performance. Sean has worked with nistune for ages. nice guys, very helpful.

Cheers pear,

yeah i had a few people on boost recommend EFI today aswell (for nistune), so im going to give them and nistune a call first thing tomorrow and see what they can do about my little ecu problem....

Sean at EFI said that shouldn't be any drama putting either r32 or z32 auto... ecu's in my car for a nistune, just that with the r32 ecu you will lose VCT, and with the z32 ecu they have to rewire for timing and injectors. Only effect on the auto transmission is a slight increase in lenght of the gear changes between 1st and 2nd. Also chasing an EMS Stinger ecu on here second hand ($600 without loom), but atleast i have a bit more of an idea on which way to go now... This has given me quite a bit to think about and thanks everyone for the help..much appreciated.

cheers...

good to hear

Finding an ECU you like is one thing, but finding a tuner you can trust AND one that can work with your preferred ECU can sometimes be hard!!

In hindsight, I should have picked my tuner 1st.

I know EFI do a lot more ECU's than Nistune, and in my books Sean is one of the best tuners I've seen.

ps. thanks tristan :domokun:

Ended up buying an EMS Stinger 4424 off a guy on Boostcruising...$650, which wasnt too bad. Keep the factory ecu (to control the auto) and wire the stinger in to control the rest. Means i dont have to swap factory ecu's and iv'e basically got a stand alone ecu, which i can use as a piggy back. I dont need a z32 afm either lol..so now i just need to get everything in the car and tuned....

post my results on dyno as soon as its all done...

cheers everyone for the input and if anyone has any more info that my help myself and or others with emanage tuners and tuners in general around southeast qld..keep it coming

thanks

brendan

  • 2 years later...

Hi ,

sorry to bring up an old thread but wanted info regarding this

Who can tune eManage Blue/Ultimate in Sydney? I am located near Hurstville.

Hey mate, This post is in the QLD section, so I would suggest you repost it in the NSW section you would get more responses there.

  • 2 years later...

obv a old thread but wondering if any updates on who tunes greddy emanage in Brisbane for current times did look for stz but no phone answering unsure if closed down or wrong number for current times if any1 could help be gr8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...