Jump to content
SAU Community

Defi-link Control Unit Question

ausdrift

By ausdrift,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
Posted

Im flipping through the install manual and it tells me to connect up 4 wires.

red to battery

orange IGN (to 12v wire when ignition is on)

black gnd

white ILM (to 12v wire when small light is on)

Now I can work out that I gotta ground the black wire, and red can I connect to the ciggi socket wire?

but then what about orange and white?

Its been a while, getting confused. Where exactly should I splice in these wires on my 33?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323987-defi-link-control-unit-question/
Share on other sites
deano3350 Contributor

deano3350

Posted
Posted

Red would need to go to an always on 12v line so you could connect it to the same wire running your stereo.

Orange you can connect to cigarette lighter as it should only have power when accessory is on, which is close enough to ignition.

Ground can go to any ground wire or a good metal surface.

White can connect to illumination wire in the stereo wires or the 3rd wire going to cigarette socket for its lightbulb.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's (the TPS) buzzing? Or something else is buzzing in response? Remove the IACV from the plenum. Block the hole into the plenum with your hand. Get someone to start the car. Let some air is. Do the revs flare up? This is checking that the path into the plenum is clean. After that, is the air hose leading to the IACV fuly clear? After that, either you didn't clean it thoroughly enough to allow the valve to move, or it is broken.  
    • wizlb
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Duncan 
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...