Jump to content
SAU Community

What Would This Be Worth

D-limo
 Share

Recommended Posts

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted

Currently looking at my options, one of them being selling up and embarking on the well-trodden import journey. But is it worth it?

This is one of the better looking deals I've recently come across. Have seen simular cars with a set of Watanabes advertised for 9k AUD in Japan :wacko:

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=htt...lIcuHkAXd87zWDQ

Assuming there is no hidden rust problems what would this be worth complied in Australia?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324140-what-would-this-be-worth/
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Whatever it costs you!

If you want it, you gotta pay for it & I think the one you just bought is going to cost you a bomb to get it up and ready for driving.

Give you some idea, I have spent near on 20G's on my 2 cars in last 3 months including purchase of a trailer.

So! It's 15G plus as far as I would think. Only problem with that sort of money is, you're NEVER going to recoop it, not ever, these classics are your passion or nothing at all.

Cheers, D

eightsixboy Mentor

eightsixboy

Posted
Posted (edited)

I thought about importing a hr31 but it wasn't worth it money wise, end up costing atleast 2-3k more then if i bought one here in aus.

If you really want to spend around 14k then buy ravenoaks dr30, prob the best dr in aus.

That dr30 you showed us would be around 12k after compliance, reg and everything else.

Edited by eightsixboy
D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was thinking closer to 10k than 15k complianced on road.

The coupe is a solid car, If I spent money respraying and rwc I'm sure I could re-coup most of the outlay but but as i write a tidy iron mask sedan or FJ20 datsun 1600 in the country is looking more attractive.

Thanks for the PM R34, was a helpful insight.

works 510 Experienced

works 510

Posted
Posted

If your going to the effort to import, you'd atleast bring over a coupe :D

fj 1600, worth about the same price, even then the rear 1/4's would possibly be full of bog.

Tough decision, I say carry on with the current project and actually complete it :banana:

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
and actually complete it :)

That's a very good point guys.

Maybe you should complete something you start for a change. It's my understanding from people that know you better than I, you have never completed any project you have started.

I can tell you, the purple DR you sold me was one of your biggest mistakes and here you're at it again.

I made a comment when you bought this latest version, that I would probably end up owning that too and now, if it wasn't for the PNV in ACT going up on ebay, it may have easily been true.

Get into it and finish the project you have started and then you will understand first hand what the passion costs.

D

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted
That's a very good point guys.

Maybe you should complete something you start for a change. It's my understanding from people that know you better than I, you have never completed any project you have started.

I can tell you, the purple DR you sold me was one of your biggest mistakes and here you're at it again.

I made a comment when you bought this latest version, that I would probably end up owning that too and now, if it wasn't for the PNV in ACT going up on ebay, it may have easily been true.

Get into it and finish the project you have started and then you will understand first hand what the passion costs.

D

now thats a good slap in the face if ive ever seen one.. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
×
×
  • Create New...