Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Block Vs Rb26 N1 Block

GTRAAH

By GTRAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is it recommended to change the block if your goal is around 400awkw, I want a healthy engine that is rock solid and wont break. Can the normal rb26 blocks handle this power healthy? without wearing it down.

And yes ofcourse meaning everything else is forged. and all the other mods are added the last thing is the Block, should it be kept standard or change it to an N1 block

Edited by GTRAAH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324170-rb26-block-vs-rb26-n1-block/
Share on other sites
Takahashi GTR Rising Star

Takahashi GTR

Posted
Posted

In my opinion with 400kw it will be fine, just get it dipped and checked at a well known workshop get them to give you the ok before commencing work. Also depends on what combination you will be running.

Can I ask what mods you will be using?

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling)

Tomei Dump pipes

Sard 720cc injectors

Sard intank fuel pump

PFC

Z32 AFMS

Air pods

Garret -5 turbos

Fuel Regulator

Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B

Oil - Air seperator catch Can

Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch

Os Giken 5 gear set

Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping

Oil cooler

Spitfire coils

3.5 inch exhaust

600hp rated Cat convertor

So far what i have , ALl internals must be rebuilt forged. I Have not decided what yet

Takahashi GTR Rising Star

Takahashi GTR

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately mate, it does come down to what internals are being used. Many packages/combination's will get you 400kw no problems but how long it will last is up to your selection of parts.

Tomei 2.8 is your best bet but expensive, but what gtr with 400kw isn't going to be...

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
Is it recommended to change the block if your goal is around 400awkw, I want a healthy engine that is rock solid and wont break. Can the normal rb26 blocks handle this power healthy? without wearing it down.

And yes ofcourse meaning everything else is forged. and all the other mods are added the last thing is the Block, should it be kept standard or change it to an N1 block

Stock block will handle that, get it grout filled to the bottom of the welsh plugs to strengthen. It will help with the strength and harmonic vibrations. It is also meant to help with cooling. Wish I had gotten my block done when I had my motor built. Also make sure that you get a good harmonic balancer either Ross tuffbond or ATI

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Standard block is fine, get good set of cams and plenty of head work... you'll need it for 400

Stock head will do over 400kw.

Mine is 455rwkw and no porting, another I know of has drop in cams and does 460awkw with stock ports.

Just add boost :laugh:

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted
Stock head will do over 400kw.

Mine is 455rwkw and no porting, another I know of has drop in cams and does 460awkw with stock ports.

Just add boost :)

Hearing that warms my heart. Nice work. :laugh:

Where your engine doesn't breath as well, just add more pressure at a tangent to flow and ensure you're not choking it in other ways. LOL.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

having seen plenty of cracked RB26 blocks I would personally be going for a N1 block if you are after a genuine 400awkw. either that or if on a budget try and get a early model (89 or early 90) R32 GTR block. They are slightly better than the later blocks but make sure it's in good health and at most on it's first oversize.

considering the cost of a new standard block vs a new N1 block it's no contest in my eyes.

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@ beer Baron as these guys are saying

*dont machine out the boors too far, get the crank balanced to a high degree

*get it grout filled to the bottom of the welsh plugs to strengthen, get a good harmonic balancer either Ross tuffbond or ATI.

*get good set of cams and plenty of head work

Surely all this would make it more durable then an n1 block?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

400rwkw from -5s is not going to be a cheap excercise - requires a switched on builder. You don't neccesarily need cams either.

Again, that same switched on builder will ALREADY know about how to fix the weaknesses in a RB block etc.

IMO if you use a decent workshop printing this thread out wont be required - given if you print it out and take it somewhere/someone who is less experienced - they will just nod their head and agree with you without really fully understanding what needs to be done/where/how etc.

Something to be mindful of.

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
400rwkw from -5s is not going to be a cheap excercise - requires a switched on builder. You don't neccesarily need cams either.

Again, that same switched on builder will ALREADY know about how to fix the weaknesses in a RB block etc.

IMO if you use a decent workshop printing this thread out wont be required - given if you print it out and take it somewhere/someone who is less experienced - they will just nod their head and agree with you without really fully understanding what needs to be done/where/how etc.

Something to be mindful of.

Not a cheap excersise? Wuldnt it be cheaper then putting a to4z in ? I have cams already so i wouldnt need most of the stuff, All i need would be........... headwork, crank, pistons, rods, ALL THE WEAK BITS oil pans, oil resitrictors, n1 oil pump etc im looking 7grand MAX to get it done. Ive already spent around 20k on the rest of the shit. Incl labour. Do you know any good machiners? that know what there talking about for instance if i show them this thread

Edited by GTRAAH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Duncan
      3D printing fun

      By Duncan · Posted

      Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...