Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i got a new turbo internal wastegate , now i was just wondering whats the best way to control boost? i want to hit 17-18psi max the turbo is a highflow 3576 with a .63 rear housing. Now i have a high pressure actuator on it and when i flloor it it hits 18psi , and also my Greddy EBC profec spec B-II is connected. Should i remove my ebc? and just let it run with the actuator? what is your advice? not really sure what i should do before i get my tune.. cheers

Geraus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324215-best-way-to-control-boost/
Share on other sites

if yor profec b isnt up to the job. you should look at the jaycar iebc. i know with a lot of IW turbos, thy hav a drop off in power at higher rpm. the jaycar item allows you to have two boost maps. those maps are fully tuneable allowing you to open/close the WG in small increments when you want. so you can close the WG slightly at the higher rpm to keep that power curve nice and steady. for eg. you can have a wet wether map set at say 10psi, you can tell it to start opening the wg fairly quikly, thus slowly building boost to stop that insane wheel spin in the wet.

you can also have a hi map set to 18psi, keeping the WG shut as long as possible to bring the boost on as quik as possible, then slightly shut the WG at higher rpms to keep that curve steady.

food for thought :cool:

turn the profec off and drive without it doing anything. if it makes boost the way you want it to then yer remove it. if not then use the profec to adjust it, they take a bit of getting used to but they're a good ebc

hmm alright sweet, but i set my greddy profec spec b to 14 psi and it doesnt go to 14psi... it just goes straight to 18psi... does that mean i need to adjust my actuator?

Edited by geraus

Sounds like you have a 1.2 bar actuator?

If so you will never get boost below 18psi (or close enough) no matter what boost controller you use...

Controllers can only raise boost above levels set by the actuator, not lower

I'm in the same boat, got the hypergear ATR43 with high pressure actuator.

I took at least 10mm of preload off it, now it has only about 2-3mm pre-load. It holds true untill boost gets to around 15-16psi then opens.

I also run a greddy profec II but it pretty much isn't doing anything, set on "low" at 0% lol.

Unfortunatly untill i re-do my intake (pod and afm to turbo) i can't hold that boost till redline :)

The boost controller can only rise boost. it can not drop. So if the actuator’s minimum pressure is at 1.2 bar then the minimum boost level can get will be 17psi. Also if your turbo's got gate controller installed then you might want to lose it up or adjust it abit. That sits your final boost level even you have no actuator.

Its in hypergear's thread. Stao updated it few times, the current one holds boost pretty well. He's using the controlled creep method bringing boost up without drop to 7000RPM. Very smart idea, It worked pretty well. I think its a separate apartment from the actuator, it seems like you can always get to the set boost level even the actuator is removed.

Ie if I set my boost level to 18psi with the gate controller it does not matter what I do to the actuator it will always creeps to 18psi. With actuator I get 18psi by 4000RPM with out I get 18psi by 7000RPM. But you can adjust it to set it at what ever level beyond the tip off level with the actuator.

Edited by kwickr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...