Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an F40 calliper. To the best of my knowledge it looks no different from an F50 - piston areas aside. It does look and is different from the Brembo's found on the R33's etc & from the current range of Brembo callipers.

Also to the best of my knowledge there is no difference between an F40 & an F50 pad (Which in turn is the same as a Brembo equipped BA Falcon, oddly enough).

Lastly I am not aware of there being any difference in the rotor sizes that these callipers can accomodate ie an F40 can go on a 324 rotor (like mine) a 343 rotor or a 355 rotor. As can an F50.

those are f40. f50 doesnt wrap around the disk as much.

ps. you can also use a "wide face" 355mm disc used by holden i think, in a 2 piece disc hat combo but using a custon hat.and use evo/sti pads for a much wider pad area

  • 10 months later...

Heres my new puppies.

On the way from Japan at the moment, should be here next month.

Brembo 6pot with a 380mm rotor. Any idea what they are off?

Old thread but.... With some small exceptions in the bridge and brake hose attachment area, those calipers look a heck of a lot like the early version 6 pots used on some AMG Mercedes.

$4.5K? Wow, everything is spendy down there. I realize that's for calipers/rotors/mounting brackets, etc., but still! I bought a pair of the same calipers in the US for $730 in 2009, and they were practically brand new.

AMG Mercedes... ignore the OEM mounting bracket.

DSC04267.jpg

DSC04268.jpg

DSC04266.jpg

DSC04270.jpg

DSC04269.jpg

Edited by Havoc1
  • 4 weeks later...

all well and good, but what about pad and disc replacement costs? i prefer to stick with a nascar type pad wick can be had new dor less than 200 bucks, also 25-30mm thick...

We've got about 8 different options on pads for that Ford/Merc 6 piston Brembo, it's quite a common caliper.

With regards to Nascar pads, alot of the teams are switching to Project Mu now because, although more expensive than the current crop of US made stuff, they last ALOT longer, and the Nascar pads are distributed worldwide from PMU here in Australia, not Japan, so depending on what you're after, you'll be able to buy the PMu Nascar pads here cheaper than what you'll be able to if you buy a set having done a round trip around the globe. Yes, they'll be more expensive, but as most categories are finding now (particularly the V8's and Porsche Cup locally) the PMu gear lasts alot longer than most other big name brand stuff, so pays for itself pretty quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...