Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well not exactly,

However, I've recently bought an R33 GTR, the thing is in brilliant condition however I noticed that the front torque gauge would register a split as soon as I moved, no matter how slow I was taking off.

Didn't know why for some time, then realised that the tyre brands front to rear were different. I did a little measurement and found there to be a small difference in overall diameter from front to back.

Now the rears actually measured smaller than the fronts by virtue of their makes so in effect, the computer is seeing that the rears are slipping as they are having to turn a little faster to travel the same distance. So I'm wondering if anyone here knows if the result would be the same if I put the fronts to the rear and vice-versa which would then have the rears turning slightly slower than the fronts.

Would this still produce the same result of torque split? Does it work in this situation where the fronts and turning faster than the rear???

I'd love to know before actually changing them over. Ta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324277-r33-gtrs-have-too-much-torque/
Share on other sites

So I'm wondering if anyone here knows if the result would be the same if I put the fronts to the rear and vice-versa which would then have the rears turning slightly slower than the fronts.
No, the ATTESSA will behave itself. (and you could have found the answer in any number of threads which deal with this phenomenon)
No, the ATTESSA will behave itself. (and you could have found the answer in any number of threads which deal with this phenomenon)

Well actually no blink_elk, this specific idea has not been addressed, everyone discusses how a difference in general will affect the system, however no one discusses the difference between which way it occurs... ie. front rotating faster or front rotating slower.

But thanks for your response and if you're right, that's very interesting to me.

lol . if i was you i wouldnt be making a piont of it.

everyone always talks about how putting the spare on the back f**ks it up and putting the spare on the front is fine(spare generally being a small space saver)

go read up on attesa and you could have figured it out all by yourself ....

Your guess is correct and 33 & 34 GTR's do pre-load the system. No matter how slow you take off the torque gauge will register a little as soon as you start moving until you're rolling at least 20 km/h (from my experience). Then because your rears are smaller, the computer "thinks" that your rears are spinning and thus will transfer torque to the fronts to try to compensate. If the diameters are out enough will do it all the time - that is what is bad for the transfer case. It will try and engage the 4wd but due to the different diameters will force slippage in the transfer case. Over time this will burn it out - they are VERY expensive to fix so this is a bad idea.

If you have to drive it to the tyre shop, swap the larger tyres to the rear so the rears are spinning slower than fronts. This is a temporary fix but get them sorted out quick.

Cheers guys, I'm taking it that it doesn't happen the other way around (ie. rears moving slower) as some have suggested.

I've put the same brand on the front and it's right, little bit in first at take off and does nothing from then on until it's howling...

Incredibly sensitive system, as the difference between the two was less than 5mm!! And the effect was immense. Fantastic car. Bit like a fussy child who doesn't like wearing different coloured socks.....

Thanks again.

yeah i the allowance before slip is 5 % i think , or might be 2% .

i thought nissan could at least privode a spare the right diameter to not cause this but no .

and also under full power you will see up to 30% to the front even if the rears not spinning

also it will go up to bout 30% under hard braking (like emergency stop with abs ) as it hinders wheel lock up

i dont know if youll A ever get it to do this or B if it shows on the gauge

  • 3 weeks later...
IT WILL NOT MOVE UNTILL THE REAR TIRES BREAK TRACTION

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Still not happy with the fact that my auto GTS25t feels like it's got faster pickup though...

Doing a service tomorrow and will look at the air filter, spark plugs and AAC valve.

Incorrect.

Strong acceleration will move some load to the front wheels, just not a lot.

ATTESSA will work on corners before you lose traction.

You don't need to be too worried about the front torque gauge not moving all the time, you'll notice the difference mostly on corners / hard acceleration or loss of traction.

Correct. In addition to this, ATTESSA also factors in the speed that you're driving at. You'll notice that cruising at 60 km/h there is some torque going to the front wheels, and you'll notice there's even more when you're cruising at 100 km/h on a freeway.

Edited by ras1983

No mate, ATTESSA was upgraded on the R33 and R34 models and the fronts are much more active than on the R32's.

Have a look at the Autospeed road test, Julian noted this with the R33 that he used for the road test.

I have been in and have driven several R33's and a R34, and they have all displayed this same trait.

  • 2 weeks later...

The system should be engaging around corners, when accelerating out of them. But when accelerating out of a corner, keep your eyes on the road :(

The passenger can watch the gauge for you...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...