Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

Hey man

Thanks for the information. Hopefully this diff will be fine and i will get use to the "Style" of driving as some people say has to change.

With the diff what oil do you use? I was thinking of using a motul around the 80w-140.

Cheers

Edited by niran
  • 2 months later...

Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

+1, that's what I have in my track car :( We shimmed it up, so it's tighter :D

  • 6 years later...

Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.

When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.

But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?

Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.
When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.
But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?
Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

The Nismo GT Lsd is not adjustable, however the GT Lsd Pro is. Both are available in 1.5 and 2-way.

If you have no clunking or skipping around tight bends especially when cold I'd say it's unlikely that you have a mechanical diff ;)
5 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

thanks for your info, I will see if my mechanic up here and check it out, it is annoying having paper work that says there is a Nismo 2-way LSD and everything points to it not being a 2-way :(

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

Thanks mate, I have the car going in to change all of the bushes and have new rear camber arms fitted, While its up I will get the mechanic to do it with me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...