Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

  saweeet4DR said:
At the end of day mate it is personal preference and or budget.Ive been thru 3 dif big name brands over the years.I had a cusco 1.5way (tight as) in my old 180 when i got it then when that went i put in a nismo 2way i got 4 a gr8 price and that was fine and not much noisier at all then the cusco (when u go in2 shop,carparks etc u just clutch it if u dnt want attention an the associated noise frm lsds).I now have a kaaz 2way in my 32 and its fine and doesnt really clunk or make that much noise,tho i have heard of sum lsds 1st hand that sound farked but dunno wat they r..if u keep the maintenence up on em n oil etc they can last a long time..

Hey man

Thanks for the information. Hopefully this diff will be fine and i will get use to the "Style" of driving as some people say has to change.

With the diff what oil do you use? I was thinking of using a motul around the 80w-140.

Cheers

Edited by niran
  • 2 months later...

Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

  mlr said:
Another option is to put a GTR rear end in, roughly the same price as a center but you get the larger axles/half shafts, I did this in my GTS-T R33 and Im very happy with the results, you cannot notice the difference of it on the street to the stock one (no cluncks or skids on tight corners) but on the track it hooks up well and is very predictable.

+1, that's what I have in my track car :( We shimmed it up, so it's tighter :D

  • 6 years later...

Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.

When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.

But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?

Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

  On 02/11/2016 at 10:30 PM, Nismo 3.2ish said:
Resurrecting  an old thread, I believe there are different settings you can use with the Nismo 2-way and  I was wondering if anyone has a Nismo 2-way LSD in their car on the softest setting.
When I bought my car I had some old paperwork and one from Advan Performance back in 2009 stating the car had a Nismo 2-way LSD, I know most the other parts are there as you could see them.
But there is no clunking or any other noises and drives great in any conditions and slow speed ?
Is there any way to tell without pulling the diff apart ?

The Nismo GT Lsd is not adjustable, however the GT Lsd Pro is. Both are available in 1.5 and 2-way.

If you have no clunking or skipping around tight bends especially when cold I'd say it's unlikely that you have a mechanical diff ;)
  On 08/11/2016 at 4:26 AM, Nismo 3.2ish said:

thanks for your info, I will see if my mechanic up here and check it out, it is annoying having paper work that says there is a Nismo 2-way LSD and everything points to it not being a 2-way :(

Expand  

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

  On 08/11/2016 at 10:09 AM, V28VX37 said:

Jack up the rear and try the spin test first (simplified, I hope I get this right) – with gearbox in neutral: 

  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the opposite way -> open diff or VLSD
  • Spin left wheel one way and the right wheel rotates the same way -> locked/mechanical LSD

Some more info on diff identification: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/limited_slip_differential.htm

Expand  

Thanks mate, I have the car going in to change all of the bushes and have new rear camber arms fitted, While its up I will get the mechanic to do it with me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...