Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I'm looking for some help/advice. I'm looking to see if it is possible to import a race car and the cost.

I have been looking at my105.com however i have not come across anything that i am interested in. So i went onto google and just look for "race car for sale" and came across alot of Europe and America website with alot of race cars that i am interested in.

I'm not looking at getting it rego, i know here in perth you are able to get b-rego which allows you to drive to and from events and to and from workshops which is everything i will need.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for race cars for sale in japan? as im trying to work out what i am looking cost wise for the car compare to buying local (if i can find anything)

Regards

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324503-importing-a-race-car/
Share on other sites

hey Michael,

quick passage i copy n pasted for you from J-spec

  Quote
If a car is intended for race or rally use (i.e. the car will not be registered for road use) and the owner importing the car can prove this (such as having participated in race/rally events previously) it is permitted for import. Under the Race/rally import rule there is no restriction on the model of car which can be imported or its condition (for example any modifications are ok).

To be eligible the importer must be able to prove that they have entered race/rally events previously and they must hold a current national level CAMS (level 3) race licence or higher. If you do not meet these requirements you cannot bring in a car for race/rally use.

Once in Australia race/rally imports can be used in any manner including stripping them for parts, however the chassis can never be complied or registered for normal road use.

that sorta should sum it up for you...my advice is.. if you're going to be driving it to n from the event... why not get a car eligable for SEVS and just never register it - that will assist with resale value and flexibility ie - ONE DAY if you CHOOSE to you can use it on the roads...

rather than having a car that is usefull only for race use

in other advice, definately contact a broker at all costs to help you out!

their fees are nothing compared to ease of mind they provide here on SAU

meanwhile.. in shizouka...

03115_002.jpg

03115_003.jpg

goes up tomorrow @ auction mate :banana:

edit

my quick analasys of the car - it has graphics which show you it's an real make of art - this is japanese for "we hunt whales"

i also see some dishy chrome wheels on it

i also see a fat FMIC poking out

i also see a full front / sides / rear / fender / widebody vertex ridge kit with carbon bonnet and roof spoiler, and canards.. and carbon mirrors

and red window tint

and four exhausts

that's three more exhausts than the regular cars.. which can have as little as ONE exhaust (pft!!)

on a serious note...

i see a verte badge... i see www.t-and-e.co.jp stickers in chrome...

...i wouldn't be suprised if this car was built by takahiro ueno

ah

i now see a risky devils sticker on the C window

hold on

ok get ready to spooje yoruself michawl

Edited by Mr Eps

Thanks Mr Eps :banana:

that s14 is very nice! however what i am looking at is a euro race car, Not sure if the models i am looking at can be rego. and the only use of the car will be to race it so not really that worry about resale value.

Also most of the cars i am looking at come std with roll cages and other fancy race stuff so not sure how you would go about getting something like that rego hmmmm...

broker is the go too, but not sure if many brokers can get the car im looking at.

(Just to give you an idea im looking at Ferrari Challenge car or similar)

i have imported race cars a few times.....in regards to import approvals i wrote a letter stating that i was collecting these cars,have no need for a CAMS license and refuse to participate in a money grabbing scheme by any sort of racing confederation and that i do not require a CAMS license to turn up to a test and tune day,tear arse around private property or sit at home and look at my car.....ive received it every time with no trouble

  ylwgtr2 said:
i have imported race cars a few times.....in regards to import approvals i wrote a letter stating that i was collecting these cars,have no need for a CAMS license and refuse to participate in a money grabbing scheme by any sort of racing confederation and that i do not require a CAMS license to turn up to a test and tune day,tear arse around private property or sit at home and look at my car.....ive received it every time with no trouble

thanks for that, very useful information :)

  • 4 weeks later...

If you speak Spanish I can give you a load of information. Your vehicle has to be 10 years old and manufactured in a NAFTA country.

The importation on most vehicles amounts to $800.00 usd

You seem like you want all detailed facts. Contact your local Consulado de Mexico.

Sorry, but Mexican law on this issue is at least 10 pages and there is no one simple answer that would satisfy your question.

========================

Free Game

  Kaido_RR said:
Thanks Mr Eps ;)

that s14 is very nice! however what i am looking at is a euro race car, Not sure if the models i am looking at can be rego. and the only use of the car will be to race it so not really that worry about resale value.

Also most of the cars i am looking at come std with roll cages and other fancy race stuff so not sure how you would go about getting something like that rego hmmmm...

broker is the go too, but not sure if many brokers can get the car im looking at.

(Just to give you an idea im looking at Ferrari Challenge car or similar)

I've done a few exotics ex UK, prices are a bit better there at the moment with the exchange rate the way it is. Feel free to shoot me an email with what you're after, the other guys should be able to help you out too if you prefer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...