Jump to content
SAU Community

4 New Tires - 4 Wheel Alignment

Cowboy1600
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

Any clues?

I had 4 new tires fitted (and balanced) along with a 4 wheel alignment but the problems haven't gone away.

Occasionally under brakes I will get a very bad steering shake. I thought this may have been due to warped discs but seeing as it happens erratically I'm thinking worn ball joints/tie rods/bushes.

Does this sound right?

And prior to the tires/alignment my car was pulling right. My steering wheel was about 10 degrees off center when driving in a straight line. Post tires and alignment I still have this problem.

I would've thought it was a cock-up by the guy who did the alignment but I can't help but think it's either a chassis alignment issue (I think my car has been pranged at some stage) or the front tie rods, ball joints and bushes are cactus.

If anyone is able to give me some direction that would be greatly appreciated. I'm not sure where to start.

BTW, car is S1 R33 GTST with 17x7 front 7x8 rear and 235/45s all round. Sits around 2 inches lower than stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324540-4-new-tires-4-wheel-alignment/
Share on other sites
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

The suspension place should have advised you of any issues. I went to Traction tyres Rowville with a slight pull to the left, mainly under braking.

They made a small castor adjustment (aftermarket castor bushes) and its now perfect, they also checked everything else out to make sure its ok.

Sorry I can't help anymore.

BI6TIM Enthusiast

BI6TIM

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you had a wheel alignment at the tyre shop, that was a mistake. Take the car to a proper suspension shop if you don't have the knowledge to sort it out yourself.

I would suggest Fulcrum as I don't know of any other reputable places in victoria. If you were in Brisbane, I'd say come and see me.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm....

Maybe I'll try and track down a suspension joint.

Anyone care to recommend someone in the North East or Eastern Suburbs (ie. Greensborough area or Burwod area)?

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted
Hmmm....

Maybe I'll try and track down a suspension joint.

Anyone care to recommend someone in the North East or Eastern Suburbs (ie. Greensborough area or Burwod area)?

Centreline in Thomastown. They are an SAU sponsor too

Astro Bear Veteran

Astro Bear

Posted
Posted

If its shudder under braking, it sounds like warped rotors. Same thing happened to me a while ago until they got machined. One of the best things I ever did. Now they squeal like a bitch though lol. Can't win!

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If its shudder under braking, it sounds like warped rotors. Same thing happened to me a while ago until they got machined. One of the best things I ever did. Now they squeal like a bitch though lol. Can't win!

That's what I originally thought. I've moved away from that a little as the shudder is not consistent. I haven't ruled it out however.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By silviaz · Posted

      How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • sk8boy204
      Auto GTS4/Stagea transfer case.

      By sk8boy204 · Posted

      I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • r32-25t
      R33 GTR N1 REO on an r32 ?

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...