Return Flow Intercooler Option - The Ford Xr6t / Typhoon Intercooler?

[TUF250]

Hi all,

I have an r33 gts-t, I have put the std airbox back in with a BMC filter and a scoop to direct air up to the snorkle, As of last week I have a 3inch dump pipe installed to match the 3inch cat and catback system in it. Very pleased with the results!

Next mod is the intercooler. Now I wont be going crazy with boost levels in this car. I will do the earth mod to get 7psi accross the whole rev range and that will probably be it.

So I have been looking at intercooler options, I wont be cutting a whole in the guard so the more common accross the radiator kits will not work for me. This led me to looking back at other options. I considered the R34 cooler and while it will probably work fine for my application, I figure you cant have enough cooling, particually with melbourne summers (40C +). So this brought me back to the return flow kits. They are fairly expensive new and second hand ones are hard to come by. I was wondering if anyone had success installing a BA/BF XR6T or the bigger typhoon intercoolers in their r33 (series 2 with sirbags - for clearance issues)? How welll do these flow? Do they fit? and how did people go with the plumbing isses? (i would want to use the factory engine bay plumbing)

Also at this point will the factory tune on my car be ok? ( i know it will run rich) or will it desperately need a retune? It is running very well at the moment with the current mods

Thanks

[R31Nismoid]

A return flow "kit" from some of our SAU traders will be far cheaper than anything that you have to have fabricated to fit.

I don't know where you are looking to suggest they are expensive (the kit's)

Basically using a XR6 cooler - For the same end result, you are paying more.

[KiwiRS4T]

I wouldn't bother with the intercooler. If you can get an R34 smic for cheap stick it in. Never mind earthing the solenoid - just bypass it and get 10psi.

[TUF250]

thanks for the replies. The return flow kits are around $750 which I know is cheap, the only reason I asked was because dad has an XR6T, just upgraded the cooler so I have a free XR6 cooler sitting at home. He bought a typhoon cooler for $100 second hand so I thought it might be worth considering. The trick would obviously be mounting and piping which is where the money will go, so I agree with you there. Was jsut curious as I saw a stagea for sale with it done and it wasnt something I had considered before.

As for the R34 cooler, I had considered this as well. They seem hard to find second hand. I was thinking the bigger cooler would be money well spent on those stop start traffic days in melbourne summers. maybe its overkill?

What about the tune side of things? will the computer become upset once I tack these mods on with the ones I already have?

Thanks

[lachlanw]

the computer wont give 2 stuffs

there were plenty of r34 smic lyin round about 6 months ago . i have one as a door stop lol . but in in NZ

[Super Drager]

Don't bother with 34 coolers worthless pieces of sh*t. The XR6T Cooler will be ok if your only staying at a low power level as they tend to heatsoak badly at 240rwkw+

[mad082]

I wouldn't bother with the intercooler. If you can get an R34 smic for cheap stick it in. Never mind earthing the solenoid - just bypass it and get 10psi.

how do you figure that? the stock wastegate will only give you 5psi (which will be about 6 or 7psi with full exhaust and cooler done. you need a boost controller to get it higher. if you do the solenoid mod you will get about 9psi all the time with the exhaust and cooler done.

shouldn't be too hard to fit the xr6 cooler, just cost you however much to get the piping done, but should still be a fair bit cheaper than buying a full kit.

[Pal]

im running a xr6t intercooler in mine. has clearance on the reo bar and has no problems with day to day driving and im running about 330rwhp (250rwkw). if you like the drags or track it will be no good as you will get heatsoak

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Don't bother with 34 coolers worthless pieces of sh*t. The XR6T Cooler will be ok if your only staying at a low power level as they tend to heatsoak badly at 240rwkw+

pretty sure he wont be pushing 240rwkw on the stock turbo @ 7psi

[TUF250]

im running a xr6t intercooler in mine. has clearance on the reo bar and has no problems with day to day driving and im running about 330rwhp (250rwkw). if you like the drags or track it will be no good as you will get heatsoak

Are you using the stock engine bay plumbing? do you have any pics of the pipework? what hoses and connectors did you need for the isntall?

This will probably be enough for mine as i dont plan (at this stage gonig past the stock turbo or std boost (maybe with the earthing mod to get the 7-9psi all the time, the car is a daily

[KiwiRS4T]

how do you figure that? the stock wastegate will only give you 5psi (which will be about 6 or 7psi with full exhaust and cooler done. you need a boost controller to get it higher. if you do the solenoid mod you will get about 9psi all the time with the exhaust and cooler done.

If you pull the hose off the actuator you will find it will boost way past 5psi!! The apparently well known method (according to SK who I learnt it off) for bypassing the solenoid is to bring boost from the intercooler pipe to the T, take one line to the actuator and put the restrictor in the line to the bov return pipe. Then you can regulate boost by varying the size of the restrictor- make it bigger to divert more air from the actuator to increase boost or smaller to decrease boost. This is just a simple way of replicating the way that a boost controller works ( although obviously without some of the other benefits of a good electronic boost controller such as varying the speed of boost build or offering 2 different boost maps).

[benl1981]

R34 cooler will be fine for what you want. If sticking to the stock turbo and running around 10psi it is all you need..Response will be better and easy fitment

[Basti]

cooler

then throw in an actuator from a r32.

[mad082]

If you pull the hose off the actuator you will find it will boost way past 5psi!! The apparently well known method (according to SK who I learnt it off) for bypassing the solenoid is to bring boost from the intercooler pipe to the T, take one line to the actuator and put the restrictor in the line to the bov return pipe. Then you can regulate boost by varying the size of the restrictor- make it bigger to divert more air from the actuator to increase boost or smaller to decrease boost. This is just a simple way of replicating the way that a boost controller works ( although obviously without some of the other benefits of a good electronic boost controller such as varying the speed of boost build or offering 2 different boost maps).

if you pull the hose of the wastegate then you will get unlimited boost. but if you simply run a hose from the cooler pipe to the wastegate without a restrictor you will only get 5 or 6psi. i know this because i did it when my boost controller was playing up.

and yes putting a restrictor in the hose will give you different boost levels. the smaller the hole in the restrictor the less boost it lets through to the wastegate and the higher the boost you will run. the bigger the hole the closer to stock it is. putting a restrictor in as well as a boost controller can give you finer adjustment of the boost.

[Pal]

have a looky at these

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...rbo+intercooler

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Xr....html&st=20

you can get a idea of what i done. typhoon intercooler would be my choice though

[TUF250]

looks good, i can see you used the std ford top pipe to run accross the top of the cooler. What did you and up using to join the cooler to the std r33 pipes? whatever it is it looks good.

I am trying to weigh up my options given this is a daily that just gets a squirt every now and then. most times its just driven as a daily commuter, i will never use it on a dyno or track unless one day I decide to go a little more serious and upgrade the turbo at which point I would definately match it with a large front mount. The turbo will remain stock and boost levels near stock for the moment. I am wondering if I should be sticking with the r34 gt-t cooler with the air duct to maximise responsiveness given the stock nature and driving style that I use.

[benl1981]

Definately stick to the R34 GTT cooler. It will be more than sufficient for your application

[Pal]

for your purposes, i would stick to the gtt cooler then. all my pipes as 304 hipol stainless steel which has been welded by my friend and is a bit of stuffing around. im running a hi flo turbo and supporting mods so i need a bit more than a smic