Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

start searching and reading. theres shitloads of threads on this.

highflow will make that sort of power, just. and does bolt on

could you point me in the direction of these threads or what exactly to type in the search bar???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5292671
Share on other sites

no its not a direct bolt on

What are you on about, you can get an internal gate GT3076 to suit a stock T3 manifold flange with the stock nissan 6 bolt dump, they brought them out a few years ago :)

Here: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_2.htm

Fair enough you have to change the lines and might need to modify the intake piping, but I still call that a bolt on.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5292765
Share on other sites

those "bolt on" gt30s are not the type nismoid was reffering to as they realistically will never make 300rwkw. only a proper gt30 with a garrett housing will. and besides why the hell would you want to go to all the effort of buying a good turbo, changing lines etc then put a shithouse rear housing on it just to save the last few dollars on a spacer plate and dump pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5292904
Share on other sites

Well I never said I was going to buy one, but for the OP's situation he doesn't want to spend to much and he wanted something bolt on and asked if you could get a GT3076 as a bolt on, which technically you can. Personally for his situation I would put a 6boost on it with a proper externally gated GT3076, however that is easily going to push things towards the $10,000 in parts range.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5293127
Share on other sites

Technically you can - but for what he wants, it's a proper housing all the way IMO.

Either way i still think the best course of action is for the OP to simply buy a GCG Hi-flow.

Bolt onto stock bits for around $1700, best of the best as far as hi-flows go, will make ~250-260rwkw and be done with it.

Motor will last forever given good servicing/tune and not sitting on limiters etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5293145
Share on other sites

I have been in contact with the tuner and he said that the GT30 high flow would be a good choice, look factory on the car and get around the 260rwkw mark.

Is this turbo the "GT30BB" on horsepowerinabox??

As this should bolt up to the stock manifold and be a good option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294157
Share on other sites

That is a high flow using GT3076 BB CHRA, Basically machine your factory housings to suit it. it will produce about 260rwkws after a decent tune. Once high flowed every thing bolts back, no modifications required. We can carry out this service at a very decent cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294368
Share on other sites

That is a high flow using GT3076 BB CHRA, Basically machine your factory housings to suit it. it will produce about 260rwkws after a decent tune. Once high flowed every thing bolts back, no modifications required. We can carry out this service at a very decent cost.

How much to high flow my current stock turbo, rb25detneo. And what does this involve??

Would like to be able to rebolt back on and not have to modify anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294384
Share on other sites

I have been in contact with the tuner and he said that the GT30 high flow would be a good choice, look factory on the car and get around the 260rwkw mark.

Is this turbo the "GT30BB" on horsepowerinabox??

As this should bolt up to the stock manifold and be a good option.

It is NOT a good choice.

A GT3076 CHRA is a 300-320rwkw style of turbo.

Putting it into stock machined housings is silly as we've already said in this thread - use GENUINE housings.

Just get a GCG item if you want the best bolt-on hi-flow.

Otherwise if you don't then next step is SAU Traders, they offer varying products that are cheaper.

Stay away from 'butchered' turbos like a GT30 into a factory housing set.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294518
Share on other sites

It is NOT a good choice.

A GT3076 CHRA is a 300-320rwkw style of turbo.

Putting it into stock machined housings is silly as we've already said in this thread - use GENUINE housings.

Just get a GCG item if you want the best bolt-on hi-flow.

Otherwise if you don't then next step is SAU Traders, they offer varying products that are cheaper.

Stay away from 'butchered' turbos like a GT30 into a factory housing set.

Ok no worries, thats off the list.

I think the GCG is a go.

Appreciate your help mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294580
Share on other sites

The GT3071 450HP or GT3076 52T 480HP is the better CHRA profile for OP6 factory housings and a common high flow profile. It will produces better response as well as smoother power delivery compare to 450HP traditional TA34 cropped turbine wheel 71mm comp wheels.

Do a compare in the dynosheet section and you will find out. The person whom mentioned a "butchered turbo" doesn't intact know what it is or much about highflowing. While my advise is based on solid evidence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294605
Share on other sites

At first you try and sell him a GT3076 in a OP6, and then now you are saying that it wasn't the best course of action and there are better alternatives? :blink:

A GT3076 in a OP6 housing, is a butchered turbo. The 500-550 compressor is not suited to such a housing at all.

It is best suited on a RB25 to a .82 Genuine rear housing and you know it.

Then you have the audacity to try claim i know nothing? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294624
Share on other sites

At first you try and sell him a GT3076 in a OP6, and then now you are saying that it wasn't the best course of action and there are better alternatives? :blink:

A GT30 in a OP6 housing, is a butchered turbo. The 500-550 compressor is not suited to such a housing at all.

It is best suited on a RB25 to a .82 Genuine rear housing and you know it.

Then you have the audacity to try claim i know nothing? :P

GT3071 56T or GT3076 52T is the best possibly solution. One's rated to 450HP and the other's rated to 480HP. They are not rated to 500~550HP and you are only thinking about the 76mm 56T or larger trims which the factory comp housing run out of materials

The dynamic of the GT30 turbine wheel is lot better then the older style of TA34 crop, in terms of:

1. Taller inducer area: resulting better turbo response and greater exhaust flow.

2. smaller inducer dia, less turbine fins: resulting less overall weight, contributing to response.

3. Larger gaps between fins: resulting better exhaust flow less back pressure.

and I'm very sure that you are fully aware of that. the Higher flow rated turbine wheel the better it is for high powered high flow applications as you are dealing with a very restrictive turbine housing.

on Road the GT30 turbine wheel comes in earlier and provides lot smoother power delivery.

I'm not interested if we get the deal. But the OP needs to have the correct correspondence and best recommendation to his solution.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294640
Share on other sites

For the money and effort involved to "Hi flow" a GT3076R into a VG30 BB OP6 housing I don't think its good bang for buck . For starters if you use the port shrouded T04E compressor housing , stupid not to with a smallish turbine housing , you'd probably still have to space it out and all of the air/water/oil plumbing has to be changed . One off bits and pieces that cost silly money compared to simply refitting the std plumbing like you can with the GCG type Hi flow .

Nismoids right , a 3076 with all is dogs barking can easily break 500 Hps worth of airflow but the reason why people never get all 43 beans out of them is they won't use the largest 1.06 A/R GT30 turbine housing .

As for the 52 trim versions of the 76.2 mm GT37 compressor , they're not that far behind the 56 trim version and the 7/7 bladed compressor wheel versions I wouldn't piss on .

I'll be blunt , most people new to them don't know what 450-500 Hp is like at the engine let alone the wheels and you can reach the traction limit of any RWD Skyline real easily without anything like that kind of power .

Also an RB25 is never going to be what you'd call crisp and responsive cranking 450-500 and I don't think it would "feel" like a fast exciting road car to drive . Dunlop destroyer yes , sporty - no .

I know what the SK GO33GO went like and it was silly fast and still couldn't use everything it had through its two driven rear wheels . It was quick and responsive and felt like a real fun car to drive .

From memory it cranked out about 266 Kw at the treads and amongst other things used a GCG Hi Flow with an OP6 turbine housing on it . A real OP6 not the aftermarket one .

Now big turbos and OE style turbine housings . This is always setting the system up for a fall because rarely is the waste gates ability to bypass enough to cope with the airflow into , meaning greater exhaust flow out of the engine .

At the very least the bastard hybrid should have a port shrouded compressor housing because the turbine housing is pretty small compared to the turbines native ones and will try to spin it up early with all the restricted hot side and boost creep issues . But people still do it and still run into the same hurdles - and the turbo still doesn't get the user up to its advertised power level so really you have to ask yourself - why go there ?

I beg you to reconsider the difference between 266 and maybe 280 bastard Kw . For the expense the lag the lack of traction when it all comes in with a bang and chronic boost control issues .

The GCG OP6 really is the better option and the smart economic one . Jesus christ it even LOOKS standard and fits up with all the cheaply available factory hardware .

IMO the 15 extra Kw of wheel spin you won't miss , nor the defects or the greatly increased cost of using the Garrett turbo .

Invariably one day you gonna want to sell out of this car and when you compare the build cost to the sale price you cry a lot less when the numbers are closer together .

Build usable power , anything else on the street is lunacy .

Your call , cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5294892
Share on other sites

280odd rwkw is not laggy when setup correctly tho.

I make 20 psi by 3400 revs in 4th on a dyno, and on the street it is literally within a few revs of that in all driving conditions

it's progressive enough no to be a lightswitch but get up and goes well quick enough to still be considered a fairly responsive car. It's a pleasure to drive both on the street and the track. (the power level, not the suspension)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5295072
Share on other sites

First of all this is just a friendly discussion about highflow profiles, I'm not trying to insult any one else who is in the business and hope you are all reading it with the same manner. The all overall solution might help to produce a even better high flowed unit or a better combination for future customers.

Looks like every one's got their own opinion about high flows.

I believe the current GCG high flows runs of GT3071's 56T 71mm spec comp wheel with a Cropped TA34 turbine. and I'm taking about the Same comp with GT30 turbine.

The main agenda is on the turbine profile which needs to work with a restricted OEM housing, the better flow the more power.

The GT30 turbine wheel compare to a TA34 Cropped turbine wheel. The GT30 wheel produced 20kws more at 4000RPMs while still making the same top end, and that is very noticeable difference in on road.

The water lines and etc are just all minion details which can be modified before assembly.

Any way, as you stated that GT30 profiles pickups better power and response which results in un-useable power band, I think that’s good enough reason for to sticking with that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5295682
Share on other sites

I'm not the greatest fan of the humble GT30 UHP turbine , it's not that it isn't a reasonable design but the 84 trim size IMO is too big . Some of the later larger GT turbines (GT37 and GT40) are being used in 78 trim size and it should have filtered down to the GT30 and GT35 UHP turbines - IMO .

The GT28 NS111 turbine tops out at 76 trim and the sadly competition only 60mm version of that design (TR30R family) is available for those units in 73 or 76 trim .

The largest of the TB31/TA34 turbines is 76 trim , the largest of three sizes .

BTW the compressor in the said Hi Flow isn't a 71.1mm GT35 series wheel , I have seen one bare and deliberately didn't turn it over to look at its part number - didn't want/need to know .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324609-500hp/page/4/#findComment-5296372
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...