Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Noise At Low Revs

BoostedBarge

By BoostedBarge,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

Dunno why I didn't post this question earlier. I have a Stagea 260RS, which I've owned for over 2 years. One thing I've always noticed with this car is that the engine kinda makes a rattley/rumbly sorta noise at low RPM (perhaps 2000rpm). It's hard to explain, but it sounds like it's sorta labouring. It's not pinging, I've heard pinging before and it sounds nothing like it. It's a lower frequency rumbling sorta noise. Perhaps it's the body kit or something resonating at that frequency. Maybe the exhaust. I dunno. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it a normal RB26 thing? I've never had an RB26 before this, so have nothing to compare against.

This noise has been there since I bought the car and I'ver never been overly concerned about it. Over the last few years I have replaced the ECU with a Vipec, fixed a leaking inlet manifold gasket and done the 100k service kit. I've checked compression twice. The last time was 18 months ago and got 180+ in each cylinder and 160 something in cylinder 6. Any ideas?

Edited by BoostedBarge
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324626-rb26-noise-at-low-revs/
Share on other sites
tranman Enthusiast

tranman

Posted
Posted

Mate i think i have the same thing. Bought it like that.

At first i thought it was my airbox resonating since its a loose. I currently suspect it may be the intake pipe not being fully seated on the turbo. Although the car does sound like its struggling....i don't think it is as it doesn't feel like your typical lugging.

The sound I get emanates from the passenger side - front quarter. Let me know what it is if you find out! At the moment I don't have my tools on me to take it apart to ensure everything checks out.

  • 6 years later...
frederico Newbie

frederico

Posted
Posted

Same thing here . . . Recently purchased a Stagea 260RS and noticed the same noise described above. This is the first RB26 I've owned or driven, so I cannot compare to much. Like @tranman said, the car sounds like it's struggling, but feels fine. And indeed the noise does sound like it's coming from the front/passenger side.

Anyone ever find out what the cause is?

BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up selling my stagea a couple of months ago. It still has the noise. A couple of mechanics looked at it and didn't think it was anything to worry about. I just bought an R32 GTR that makes a similar noise, but much quieter. I'm pretty sure it's the throwout bearing. Try pushing the clutch in when you hear the noise.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
frederico Newbie

frederico

Posted
Posted

I've spoken to a mechanic/importer who deals with a lot of GTRs. He wasn't sure about where exactly the noise is coming from, but said this is very common in GTRs (and the 260RS) and it's nothing to worry about.

I've recently driven a second 260RS (stock engine and exhaust) with an aftermarket clutch and it did not make the noise. So it could indeed be coming from the clutch/flywheel area as suggested above. If I push the clutch once the noise comes on it does go away.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tekitsune
      Upgrade an rb25neo

      By Tekitsune 路 Posted

      Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana 路 Posted

      Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • Yeetus
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Yeetus 路 Posted

      I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • MBS206
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
脳
脳
  • Create New...