Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Past few weeks ive noticed car making popping sounds (machine gun like/powerdrill sound when u cant drill any further) when on about 11-13psi throughout the rev range. So i turned boost controller right down and it is still doing it, but in higher rev range. Also with turned down it just spools slower but is still 10-12psi????

anyone have any ideas.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324637-weird-sounds-when-on-boost/
Share on other sites

missfire?

check your plugs and coils.

gap your plugs down cos it seems your boost is blowing out your spark.

or it could be detonation you're experiencing, what fuel are you using?

p.s. might help to list the mods your car has mate lol. then weve got some sorta idea what your engine is dealing with...

3" cat back, pod filter, hybrid intercooler, el cheapo manual boost controller go fast bits.

i only run bp ultimate fuel.

gts-t r33 series 1

it is worse when its colder temperature outside .... e.g. night and early morning

I beleive you have found richen and retard airflow point in your stock (?) ecu, once the computer senses a certain airflow it will richen the mixture and retard timing. The reason this could be happening now when it wasnt before could be due to the colder weather, colder denser air = more total air into the engine at the same boost. Try turning the boost down to stock and see what happens!

washed engine bay like 6months ago, i did clean MAF sensor a 2weeks ago... i tried winding boost down, i will try other way in case i opened it up, but as per instructions it is down as it seems to stay under 15...... holds on 10psi then higher revs when spiking over 10psi it hits the noises.

washed engine bay like 6months ago, i did clean MAF sensor a 2weeks ago... i tried winding boost down, i will try other way in case i opened it up, but as per instructions it is down as it seems to stay under 15...... holds on 10psi then higher revs when spiking over 10psi it hits the noises.

R&R for sure

I beleive you have found richen and retard airflow point in your stock (?) ecu, once the computer senses a certain airflow it will richen the mixture and retard timing. The reason this could be happening now when it wasnt before could be due to the colder weather, colder denser air = more total air into the engine at the same boost. Try turning the boost down to stock and see what happens!

^^^ What he said

how do i overcome this

Wind back the boost..... 10psi is sometimes enough for the ecu to R&R....

Your could also try re-setting the ecu and see how that goes.... If it hasn't been done for a while, it is well worth doing.....

if it helps, i got a sII with similar mods.. mine was making the same noise when i first bought it.. turned the boost down to stock (had to do a bit of trial an error with the manual boost controller and the boost gauge) running 7-8psi no missfire/popping noise when foot is flat on the gas.. I tried turning the boost back up a few weeks ago up to 11-12psi, which made it missfire slightly again.

stock turbo / ecu doesn't like anything above 12psi

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
    • Pay diff/trans workshop to do this.   Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.
    • So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)
×
×
  • Create New...