Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was doing some searching on youtube and came across this American douche's video about his BOV

Anyway check it out. I'd be pretty pissed if my BOV was working the way his does with his extra efficient twin turbo setup. BOV FAIL anyone???

Some of the comments are pretty good and he gets pretty defensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324649-errr-is-this-guy-for-real-real/
Share on other sites

It does seem odd, but reading the comments the makers of the product genuinely believe the product works and the theory behind it... I'm curious as it is difficult to see past the apparent flaw in the design.

what's up is they broke their blow off valve in the design stage and decided to make it anyway. They do make filters for BOV's (Blits Super Sound had them for a while) but I think they were only there to change the sound it produced. This thing is blowing air out at idle and at wot and he says it's because of how efficient the turbo setup is. BS! This thing would play havoc on an Airflow metered setup, you'd be coughing and spluttering all over the place if you even made it out of the drive.

EDIT - Here's the link to the BOV on the manufacturers website clicky just go to products then BOV. Apart from them sounding not too sure what their BOV is exactly, it also says it will never leak boost. I guess that means aside from at idle or at WOT with an extremely efficient turbo setup :D:(;)

there is nothing wrong with what he is saying

the company had some brilliant ground breaking idea of having a BOV that opens at low load/under vaccum, from memory it was for quicker throttle response, as when you crack the throttle, the air has a much shorter inlet path to the plenum, because intercoolers and piping and the whole turbo system is a big restriction.

the guy in the video is talking about that product specifically, because it draws in air under vaccum, people like to put filters on them. but hes saying that because the bimmer turbo is so 'efficient' and flows enough air, that there is actualy no vaccum through the BOV (again, keep in mind, this is product specific).

stupid thing is, if there is no vaccum though the BOV, there is no need to use their product on that car lol. that said it will probly open if you suddenly stab the throttle. i still found it funny though

Edited by VB-
Maybe I'm just being a troll... but... "FAKE AND GAY."

yeah they see you trolling.... They Hating... lol

But seriously it is legit. Check out their website I posted the link to it earlier. seems they have figured out a way to make all the jap BOV's obsolete due to their new "better" design

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
  • Create New...