Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I took the GTR to a track day at Morgan Park a few weeks ago. Some very fast and very expensive machines were there that day (a few worth over $150 000 each).

This is a pic of the engine bay of one of the cars that was lapping fastest.

Who can tell me what type of engine it is and what type of car?

I will post the answer tomorrow!!!

Picture_2523.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3247-ok-you-automobile-experts/
Share on other sites

The engine is definantly a RB25DET, you can see the VCT bulge on the timing belt cover so its not a RB20DET. (Nice job on the plenum, btw)

The engine bay doesn't look like a nissan. The fuse box is in an odd place, could have been moved but nissan doesn't use clear covers any way. The gas struts holding up the bonnet look like the sort of thing Toyota would do, or maybe something european. The sound deadening on the bonnet is pretty hefty too.

BMW (older 3 or 5 series) keeps coming to mind.

Looks to me to be an old 5 Series BMW,,,,E28 I'm SURE. Notice Brake Master Cylinder is on the left side and that crappy old power steering bottle. He's modded the bonnet struts,,,but the biggest giveways are the air inlets at the back of the bonnet and that fuse box.........and thats gotta be an RB25DET,,,,those breather hoses give it away.....

So what do I win,,,,,,

Neil.

Well I gotta say that I am impressed.

All those who said it was a 5 series BMW with a RB25DET - Take a bow. You know your cars!!!

Picture_2524.jpg

So if you happen to come across an old bimmer with flutes in the bonnet at the old traffic lights grand prix, don't automatically think it will an easy win!!l

Picture_2522.jpg

Originally posted by [ryan]

Neil you know your sh*t!

Gee thanks Ryan,,,,12 years with Nissan and 10 with BMW did help....Ryan can you fix my computer for me???.

Hey 1GTR2GO,,,,next time you see him,,,sugest a front strut brace,,,or that lovely engine bay will need re-spraying,,,,Early BMW strut towers don't like no support.

Bloody nice job of that engine bay indeed,,,,I'm impressed.

Neil

Originally posted by ndr

Gee thanks Ryan,,,,12 years with Nissan and 10 with BMW did help....Ryan can you fix my computer for me???.

Hey 1GTR2GO,,,,next time you see him,,,sugest a front strut brace,,,or that lovely engine bay will need re-spraying,,,,Early BMW strut towers don't like no support.  

Bloody nice job of that engine bay indeed,,,,I'm impressed.

Neil

whats wrong with it

Originally posted by ndr

Looks to me to be an old 5 Series BMW,,,,E28 I'm SURE. Notice Brake Master Cylinder is on the left side and that crappy old power steering bottle. He's modded the bonnet struts,,,but the biggest giveways are the air inlets at the back of the bonnet and that fuse box.........and thats gotta be an RB25DET,,,,those breather hoses give it away.....

So what do I win,,,,,,

Neil.

Damn Neil!:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
    • A CigWeld EasyWeld 130 can be had from ebay for $360 delivered. Good for 0.6 to 6mm, which would be fine for my requirements. I guess that on top of that you would need to buy a regulator, hoses and wire. I already have gloves and an auto-darkening mask. How is the gas bottle charged? Do you rent it then pay for top ups?
    • RB20 being an option from factory would mean no custom parts or fabrication required, just have to collect the right bits. Probably would be the easiest option I reckon for a motor swap. How common are SR20s vs RBs in Turkey?
×
×
  • Create New...