Jump to content
SAU Community

Ajustable Actuators?

r33 v-spec

By r33 v-spec,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33 v-spec Apprentice

r33 v-spec

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just putting in a set of GT-SS turbos on a GTR. Any advise on what the minimum psi the adjustable actuators can be set to and how do you know if they are set equal.

Looking at running a low boost setting of around 10 psi and a hight boost (via manual bleed valve at the moment) of 18psi.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324717-ajustable-actuators/
Share on other sites
singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

Posted
Posted

the way i set mine with out actually driving the car was to use a vaccum/pressure pump with a pressure gauge. i just kept adjusting the linkage out untill it had the amount of preload needed to open at the amount of boost i wanted to run. this way is much easier than driving and adjusting repeatedly untill you get what you want.

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

the way i set mine with out actually driving the car was to use a vaccum/pressure pump with a pressure gauge. i just kept adjusting the linkage out untill it had the amount of preload needed to open at the amount of boost i wanted to run. this way is much easier than driving and adjusting repeatedly untill you get what you want."

um that will not work . the gates need to be fully open at the psi you want .

as hyper gear said . waste gate preload is not really the way to adjust overall boost pressure . it works to an extent but only for maybe up to 5 psi(roughly maybe more or less) over spring pressure as anymore than this and you are going to start limiting waste gate travel and will end up with boost creep(boost climbs with revs as gates cant flow enough)

yes running an ebc over waste gate spring pressure to achieve the same level of boost can provide faster spool up but in the real world you will probably find the difference is not worth it

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted
They would normally be set at 7psi. the average pre-load should have on the actautor is 3mms. You then need to use a boost controller to increase overall boost sittings.

What kind of advice is that? an adjustable actuator's preload should be set to a point where the boost curve just starts to spike...then backed off half to a full turn...then thats the optimum preload for the setup...then overall boost can be raised via a boost controller...you can't just say an average of 3mm...coming from someone who sells turbos i'd expect at least some accurate info...

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted
What kind of advice is that? an adjustable actuator's preload should be set to a point where the boost curve just starts to spike...then backed off half to a full turn...then thats the optimum preload for the setup...then overall boost can be raised via a boost controller...you can't just say an average of 3mm...coming from someone who sells turbos i'd expect at least some accurate info...

That point is precisely 3mms with .5 bar actuators. Try it your self if you don't believe it .

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
I have GTSS's with the original HKS actuators, f*kn things run 0.5bar on mani pressure - must not all be 1bar...

Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :P

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

It would be worth checking they're set the same by applying pressure to the common line at the boost controller and verifying they both open at exactly the same pressure before you re-install all the bits you've taken off to get at the adjustment.

lotsalag Contributor

lotsalag

Posted
Posted

I've noticed that new hks actuators often seem to be a bit weak, making it a soft coming onto boost. the supplied one with my gt-rs sucked at anything over 1 bar, changed actuator one week later. if u wanna run decent boost ie 15+ psi maybe get stiffer/higher rated ones.

1 bar on gt-ss's is barely getting out of bed :D

  • 1 month later...
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
I have GTSS's with the original HKS actuators, f*kn things run 0.5bar on mani pressure - must not all be 1bar...
Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :)

umm mine are the 0.5bar variety as well although im looking at running them at 18psi or so.. not sure if it allows that much adjustment but whats the best way to set em while in place.. adjust both and check with a pressure gauge when both start to open??

  • 2 weeks later...
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :/

HKS site states 78.5～108kPa(0.8～1.1kgf/cm2) for the GTR - 1430-RN001 which would mean 11psi to 15.6psi

should i have boost drop issues even with these heavy duty actuators or should i be looking else??

air leaks test done (intake manifold gasket replaced) and boost controller by gizzmo ms-ibc

post-40640-1280380092_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Randhj
      R34 4 door indicator and horn issue

      By Randhj · Posted

      Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • PranK
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PranK · Posted

      Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo Super Coppermix Twin and R33 GTR transmission replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • PLYNX
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Of the 90s ! !
×
×
  • Create New...