Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh no there is a way....get everything out of the way heater hoses, coil pack loom, vacuum hoses i mean everything. then you can get a hand in there and a screw driver and you can fiddle around with it....

also you can loosen the engine mounts loosen not take off. then jack the engine on a tilt to give you more room.

it is very fiddly and complicated and so frustrating but it can be done...

its basically a real prick of a position to get to, in between the firewall and the rear of the motor. persistence is your friend. i ended up taking my bonnet off to get over the area more ergonomically if i remember right, i did it ages ago...

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

Not sure which Turbo/sump bracket you mean but as far as i can tell everything else is fine..just pulled it all off to replace cracked manifold studs thought id replace the whole line while it was apart

The original line has been cut with the flame proof rubber hose put in place, the hose but gets dry and hot and eventually cracks the outer tubing near the turbo ex housing

Was just wondering how hard it was to change, appears its very hard..Maybe i should try run the hose away from the turbo more so it doesnt get so hot..If you guys arent having problems it must be my setup, I'll drop by pirtek maybe see what hose they have

Cheap way is just to cut off the metal line and replace the mid section with abit of good rubber hose and clamps.

will heater hose do or is there a particular hose better suited to something so close to the turbo and manifold?

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!).

do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)?

some other problem here

the on mine that has split (im assuming its the same one) comes from the manifold to the turbo, when i changed my turbo i dont remember there being a sump bracket there, mine has split the rubber hose, its only about 3 or 4" long and goes around the rear drivers side corner of the block.

Helped a mate replace this hose on his car after it burst one night on the dyno, it connects to the head flange water return under the plenum. With the plenum off its a pretty straight forward job. Getting the plenum off is the bit that tests the patience. There is a barbed fitting under there that a -6 hose fits, run this to the metal block that has the vacuum line attached also. Cut the pipe off and drill and tap the rear of it to accept a barbed fitting and attach the -6 hose.

good luck

EDIT: this was on a GTR...for GTS-t just plug the line and run it to the radiator outlet neck on the engine. That way can show off your bit of bling braided hose!

Edited by Supa Steve

Ok found it..didnt have to take the bonnet of or anything, did have cam covers and aac out which helped...helped cut my hands on the sharp edges of the head that is :D , but with some perseverance got that prick of a bolt out, have just run gates flame proof hose all the way .

Have run hose down and back up to turbo to keep it away from the ex housing a bit,,it now connects vertically not horizontal if that makes any sense..

Pretty sure water can pump up hill cant it?

It doesnt go any higher than original, goes from rail under plenum straight around back of head under heater hoses,but instead of going straight to turbo goes down and then back up again ..

By bleed bolt is that the bolt right up the top at front of the plenum?

I was wondering what that was for

Edited by Arthur T3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...